Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I need a new HD clutch soon and have noticed that the Exedy ones are about $150-200 more then the RPM equivalent.

Is it worth it to spend the extra on the Exedy or is there really no difference?

I basically just need a clutch that can handle up to 230rwkw so hoping that either HD will be ok.

Thanks.

DO NOT get the Exedy Heavy Duty Range, the pink pressure plates, they're rubbish.. make sure it's the silver cover which is made in Japan.. not a remanufactured OEM item that is sprayed pink.

I bought my car with an RPM clutch and it was slipping hard (due to uneven wear) so I removed the clutch kit and replaced it (my only experience).

I've got an excedy heavy duty, I don't know which model but when I did the engine swap and moved the clutch over it was about 75% worn (hard to tell) and the pressure plate is pink. I just tuned up to 240rwkw and it doesn't just bite any more theres a split second of slip. 3rd gear won't stall the motor any more, if I let it out in 3rd on boost it will just slip.

Is my clutch on the way out? I'm going for 300rwkw at the end of this year, not sure whether to do it first. Lots of people say over 300 is fine with this clutch but i'm not convinced

Blackkers, chuck it into 4th gear and boost up a hill. You will either notice it slip or it won't slip and that's how I would determine.

My pink excedy lasted a few power runs on the dyno before giving up on the way home on the highway. This was 250rwkw

I am currently running a KB clutch from KB clutches in Sydney. Great service and amazing price, just call him and send him a dyno sheet or some specs of the car and he will do the rest

Okay mate I'll definitely give it a go. I know the clutch has a bit of meat on it i'm just not sure how it will handle the power i'm chasing. Thanks for your input

KB seems to be the place for clutches too

Edited by Blackkers

Got the RPM in the end, haven't fitted it yet but it looks pretty decent.

Honestly couldn't justify spending almost double on an exedy.

Good luck mate, hope they have revised their clutches. They had a bad run for a while, and I was one to suffer from it.

It depends on where u buy the clutch from i guess

i bought a new hd exedy clutch and gtr racing flywheel for 925 shipped to my door and it only took one day.

call this number and ask for simon and tell him josh from armidale gave u his number 0296481688

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...