Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this possible? Ive heard the RB20DET's arent know for their huge power outputs. If this is possible and someone has achieved it could you please let us know what setup you've used or if you know of a setup possible to get these sorta times. Would it be a better option to put in a RB25DET and go from there?

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43186-rb20det-in-an-r32-running-low-11s/
Share on other sites

... or if you know of a setup possible to get these sorta times. Would it be a better option to put in a RB25DET and go from there?

I dont think getting the power out of an RB20 in an R32 GTST to run an 11 is that difficult, i think its the car setup required to do it can get expensive.

A few ppl have commented my car should run an 11, some even say easy, but i doubt it will....not because of power, but the rest of my car wont allow me to run that time. (actually the driver may be a limiting factor as well :Oops: )

I have an RB20DET with Trust TD06-20G with 10cm housing, Trust exhaust manifold and Type R wastegate, GTR 444cc injectors, re-written Jap ECU, AVC-R, HKS Type S cooler, HKS air filter, R33 Series II AFM, 19 row oil cooler, HKS Hyper 3" exhaust with cat and both mufflers, Whiteline works susp package and UAS GTR 6-puck clutch and flywheel(sprung centre), and 225/45/17 D01J rear rubber. (with std open wheeling diff)

I have no idea about the power my car makes, about 2 weeks ago it was on a dyno and made 180rwkws at 0.65 bar (may have been 0.8 i cant remember) AFM was playing up so going Z32, and the mixtures were bad, so getting a re-tune next week after the engine gets some std GTR cams and adjustable cam gears this weekend.

Power, i dont know, this turbo has made 260rwkws on an RB25, i have seen an R32 GTST in NZ makign mid 240rwkws (without cams)...so hoping for at least 230rwkws, without having to wind too much boost into it.

So friends say 11, tuners says 11s (once the Maps are cleaned up), but the cars clutch cant be slipped off the line, so means getting off the line will be either dump and spin, low revs and bog, or ride and burn :rofl: . Also 225 rear tyres aint the best for traction, i can fit 245s on the rim and arches, but i couldnt afford 245s when i recently bought rubber.

Then i have an open wheeling diff, not good for traction off the line, and there is the suspension im using, (2rismo gives me heart as he ran an 11 with Whiteline susp) and along with the firmness of my shocks/springs, my alignment aint ideal for drags, its actually set up for sprint laps around circuits (though i never seem to drive at the track :Oops: )

Next Friday at Calder, ill give it a run and see what time i do, i expect between a 13.1 and a 12.7, as i have never drag raced my car before. I know of a few cars that made over 300rwkws just crack into the 11s with the right rubber and repeated attempts.

The quickest RB20DET powered R32 i know of is 12.7 (a time i will be stoked with)

Then i have an open wheeling diff, not good for traction off the line, and there is the suspension im using, (2rismo gives me heart as he ran an 11 with Whiteline susp) and along with the firmness of my shocks/springs, my alignment aint ideal for drags, its actually set  up for sprint laps around circuits (though i never seem to drive at the track :Oops: )  

Next Friday at Calder, ill give it a run and see what time i do, i expect between a 13.1 and a 12.7, as i have never drag raced my car before. I know of a few cars that made over 300rwkws just crack into the 11s with the right rubber and repeated attempts.

The quickest RB20DET powered R32 i know of is 12.7 (a time i will be stoked with)

Very difficult, but possible - I have watched an R32 GTSt w/ RB20DET run an 12.2 in NZ, but that was using NOS and slicks. Esp. if you want to do it with a road car/street tires, I'd guess an RB25 would make it heaps easier - just because of the response/turbo driving ability.

  • 4 months later...
whut abt that white one with Microtech in HPI, ran 11?

I think the one your are talking about is MattR's old car (forum member) It had a RB25 in it, I think it ran about 11.7 or 6 on slicks

The car was stolen and burnt not long after, so it went no faster

Clint32's R32 ran 12.8 on stock internals and injectors, very good time for stock motor

I think the one your are talking about is MattR's old car (forum member) It had a RB25 in it, I think it ran about 11.7 or 6 on slicks

The car was stolen and burnt not long after, so it went no faster

Clint32's R32 ran 12.8 on stock internals and injectors, very good time for stock motor

LOL...so 12.8s the benchmark then. Will have to see how i go this friday, i reckon im about a 20:1 of not even getting under 13.5:(

There is a R32 GTS-T RB20DET with Slicks and a Stock Bottom end running high 11's down here.

Just a cheap cam grind, Link Computer, T3/T4 turbo, Custom intake and exhaust manifolds.. it's not consistent but has done a couple of high 11's. Best of 11.8

I don't think it runs any Nos also.

Also on a stoc GTS-T box.. they don't last long.

I was suprised..

LOL...so 12.8s the benchmark then. Will have to see how i go this friday, i reckon im about a 20:1 of not even getting under 13.5:(

Yeah, Clints time is pretty stout for a RB20 I reckon. At the time it was making around 230/240rwkw I think, RB25 box and GTR mech. LSD

I have been to the drags once, and I sucked! At the time it was with my previous tune (ie no fuel and no timing in mid-range) and the best I could manage was a 14.0 at 104.9mph, my 60ft was 2.4ish. Axle tramp and diff where the main prob

My suspesion was also not well suited for drags, overall I thought my car would run mid 13's, but it wasn't to be

Do a few runs just driving of the line, and get a feel for what mph your car is capable of, you will need around 110mph to run a 12, maybe a bit more

Have a go mate, be kind to your gearbox too

My experience has been that the problem with the RB20 isn't max power, you can easily get enough to run 120 mph. But the power band gets so narrow that they get really hard to get off the line and that makes 11's a bit of an ask. As Roy posted, bog and die or wheelspin city.:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...