Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, just wanting some proper clarification, not what you "think" is true, or what your brothers mates cousin friend told you he heard once.

Is the 32 GTS4 box the same strength wise as the 32 GTR box?
I know they have different ratio's, but have read conflicting info regarding strength, some say weak, some say same internals as GTR box or 25det manual box.

I just want clarification before looking at one as a potential new car.

Cheers
Brett

FWIW, I have a R32 GTS4 running the RB25DET. It was initially tuned to 180kW at all 4 (factory is only around 115 @ all 4). It still runs the factory gearbox. The box is still fine, no synchro problems, no selection problems.

In my experience, Nissan gearboxes are TOUGH. Some people will tell you "I just broke my 4th box". I have to say they must really be mistreating the box. Treat the box right, ie no 7k-sidestep-the-clutch-launches, it will treat you right.

It is a KNOWN fact that the GTS4 gearbox is basically the same box as the GTR box.

The GTR box is basically the same internals as the other large frame Nissan gearboxes (RB25DET, VG30). It makes sense that they would go to the effort of developing the AWD box for the hi po car based on the existing strong gearbox. It makes absolutely no sense that they would then go and develop another AWD box based on the small frame gearbox (RB20DET) just to put it behind RB20s in GTS4s. Even though the little RB20 wouldn't need the strength, it would make the most sense for them just to bung the strong AWD box they already had behind it.

They are very similar. As a couple of examples, the mainshaft part number is the same between the GTS4 and GTR boxes, but different to the 2wd rb20 boxes. The bearings are the same between the GTR and GTS4 but different to the RB20. These are two indicators that they are of similar strength.

Cheers fella's, exactly what I wanted to hear, this has a 25 in it already and a few decent mods, has a rwd switch, so will be using that majority of the time if we get it.
Won't be abusing it, but if my mates can baby their GTR boxes with 500+hp and still have fun, then I'm sure I can manage with 400 :)

I'd say clutch selection is one of the most important factors in breaking gearboxes... steer clear solid centre clutches and mega clamp singles..

I did like the comment above from someone with all of 180kw that anyone who breaks one "must really be mistreating the box" ?

put decent power through them, with good grip and they're not indestructible.

That's not a fault of the gearbox. Its like blaming the kettle for blowing up after you took out the 10A circuit breaker and replaced it with a 6" nail.

My point about my "all of 180kW" shows that even with a 50% increase in power going through it, the box still works perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...