Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Got A R34 An Want Comprehensive Car Insurance

Aftermarf

By Aftermarf,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

darksky34 Mentor

darksky34

Posted
Posted

well, depends on whether you're legally allowed to drive it....?

have a search of the forum there is a thread about insurance (many) i'm sure you'll find options there. Justcar, NRMA etc.

Hank Scorpio Grand Master

Hank Scorpio

Posted
Posted (edited)

Plattsy, what you doin' in my state boy?

Also P-Plates and R34s are perfectly fine, go with Just Car mate :)

Edited by Hank Scorpio
Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

Plattsy, what you doin' in my state boy?

Also P-Plates and R34s are perfectly fine, go with Just Car mate :)

so i was half right! hahahah!

again apologies matey boy! enjoy your death trap mobile!

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

Just Cars is about your only option while on your P's, but trust me, you don't want to claim with them. As soon as you are able, switch over to Shannon's. They are much better.

I had a minor accident in my R34 while I was insured with Just Cars. I rear ended someone who decided for no apparent reason to just stop on the highway. It wasn't a big impact, so the front bumper, headlights and a few bits and pieces needed to be replaced. I didn't get a choice of repairer and the guys I was forced to go with didn't even know what kind of car it was. It was taking so long that I ended up going to see the repairer and my car had been sitting there untouched collecting dust as they didn't know where to get parts for it. I ended up ordering the parts myself for the repairs. It took just over six months to get my car back when it should have taken a max of four weeks and that was only due to delivery times.

On top of that, the paint job they did on the front bumper was that bad that it had drip marks on it and within three weeks of getting the car back, the one side of the front bumper came loose and I had to refit it myself.

All I'm saying is, you don't really have a choice, but if you do have to claim, push as hard as you can to pick your own repairer and don't get quotes from anyone till you have done a background check.

Aftermarf Enthusiast

Aftermarf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info man hopefully I don't hav to make a claim I checked just car an got a quotes for my situation an I think it was like 3.1k a year with 900 excess something like that does that sound about ryt? An does comprehensive cover theft as well?

sin- Community Regular

sin-

Posted
Posted

Congrats on your purchase. Since you're probably 17 or 18, then that sounds reasonable for that model of car. Yes Full Comp covers theft, however there may be an additional excess fee depending on the insurer.

Hank Scorpio Grand Master

Hank Scorpio

Posted
Posted

I had to make a claim with Just Car when someone pulled out in front of me and hit the LHF of my old 34. All went through quite smoothly with the car repaired at D & T Panel here in Osborne Park. No problems what so ever.

Brett_J Contributor

Brett_J

Posted
Posted

After our 34 being hit by an old lady exactly 6 weeks ago, the cheque finally got transferred into our account today, Just Car are so shit to deal with, we had to call them constantly to get updates, the most help we got was from the Admin girl at the Smash Repairers, won't be using them again, going to Shannons for sure, having a pile of friends working there will help any future claims if I need to!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...