Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Re post with updated list and because the old post is locked. Not sure how to unlock it either!

LOCATION: ST. ALBANS, VIC

CONTACT NO: 0432 544 363

HUGE bunch of R33 GTS-T parts for SALE!

Engine bay / bolt ons etc:

- Standard Intercooler piping $40

- Standard turbo $150

- Standard Airbox with snorkel $150

- Standard cross over pipe with BOV $50

- Standard RB25det series 1 loom & ECU $100

- Turnflow intercooler kit with piping $150

- Copper radiator $80

- Alternator $50

- A/C compressor $50

- Power steering pump $50 SOLD

- Starter motor $50

- Engine mounts $50

- Rb25 Clutch fan $50

- CUSCO catch can $80 SOLD

- Strut brace in Cusco blue (unsure of brand) $50

- Dump pipe / Front pipe 2.5" or 3" $40

- JASMA 3" exhaust mid muffler is damaged $80

Drivetrain components:

- Complete manual conversion to suit R33/R34 $1500

- 5 Speed gearbox $1000

- Clutch master & slave cylinder with fluid reservoir $80

- Xtreme Heavy duty clutch & Flywheel $250 (<1000kms old)

- Tailshaft $100

- 4.11 LSD diff $150

- 5 Bolt half shafts $100

- Rear subframe (bare) $50

- Front subframe (bare) $50

Suspension / arms / etc:

- Standard steering wheel $10 with horn (rough)

- Standard suspension $100

- Standard Front Upper Camber Arms $40 pair

- Standard Front Upper Lower control Arms $40 pair

- Standard Front L/R Castor rods $50 pair

- Standard Rear L/R Camber Arms $40 pair

- Standard Rear L/R Traction Arms $40 pair

- Standard Complete 5 stud conversion including brakes $500

- Standard Sway bars F/R $20 each

- Steering rack $80

- Steering column $20

Exterior

(all parts are (QM1) Factory white paint code)

- Headlights $200

- Bonnet $20 (hail damaged) SOLD

- R33 series 1.5 bumper with reo & indicators $200 REO SOLD

- Doors $80/ Each (complete minus mirrors)

- Guards 50/ Each

- Standard side skirts $150

- Rear view mirrors $50/ Each

- Rear tail light with housings $80

- Skyline centre garnish $20

- Rear bumper $50

- Sunroof $200 (with roof lining and everything to make it work) SOLD

Interior

- Non airbag clockspring $40

- Dash fascia with vents, hazard, demister etc $80

- Climate control $50

- Indicator stalk $15

- Wiper stalk $15

- Steering column surround $10

- Skyline Door Scuff Plates $20 pair

- Sun Visors $20 pair

- Dashboard $50

- Heater core $30

- Blower fan & A/C core $50

- A/B Pillar trims $30

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432763-wrecking-r33-gtst-heaps-to-go/
Share on other sites

SOLD - Turbo, turn flow intercooler kit, PS pump, clutch fan, catch can, dump pipe, clutch master and slave cylinder, tail shaft, sunroof, clock spring, dash fascia, indicator stalk.

Everything else still available!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...