Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was merely speculating based on the photos, due to the nature of the failure, it looks as though the ring gear has separated from the flywheel. But it certainly looks as though your flywheel is a single solid piece flywheel.

Lol and i was supporting that speculation ;) hehe

I just posted the other info as i feel JB clutches get hammered on here by a select few and it is based on an issue that had more to the story too (So i am told)...

Ah i see now how this thread is.

I believe the problem here in is the fact that op wants to run a unsprung clutch which I highlighted before will much gearboxes. something has to give and if the clutch cant ant the tyres dont, then bye bye driveline

I spoke to jez about it as well who btw doesn't have an issue with unsprung but provided it will hold 450kw id go with sprung centre but will need further discussion with jb although jez said in his opinion solid centers are stronger, anyway I really appreciate everyone's input, australia is a democracy and so is sau and its what makes it great on both counts

34 g Tt you run a jb clutch I hear? Which one if so and how is it?

Scott

Yes, I have the carbotic button clutch as you can see in the link to my build thread, it has the special solid flywheel and the really heavy pressure plate too! Its damn good to drive on the street as you can nearly drive it like a normal clutch once you get used to it, and its been holding up to 360-390kw for over a year and it has not had an easy life....

Jim will run you through the advantage of sprung and unsprung, from memory the main difference was the transfer of driveline noise etc not so much the harshness... Anyway, pick his brains and tell him i said hi! haha

  • Like 1

Yes, I have the carbotic button clutch as you can see in the link to my build thread, it has the special solid flywheel and the really heavy pressure plate too! Its damn good to drive on the street as you can nearly drive it like a normal clutch once you get used to it, and its been holding up to 360-390kw for over a year and it has not had an easy life....

Jim will run you through the advantage of sprung and unsprung, from memory the main difference was the transfer of driveline noise etc not so much the harshness... Anyway, pick his brains and tell him i said hi! haha

and the difference between that and the NPC 10 inch carbotic with flywheel that i have is? Got any pics of it? How much was it?

ask alot of questions dont I :P

and the difference between that and the NPC 10 inch carbotic with flywheel that i have is? Got any pics of it? How much was it?

ask alot of questions dont I :P

Apparently the difference is mine will explode and destroy everything in a 100 mile radius according to gossip on here :no:

Have a look at the link on the last page and you will see pics mate! :action-smiley-069:

lol...still didnt say how much it was

Dont remember... I think the clutch rebuild was around $1000 or something but then i decided to buy the heavier cover and flywheel so there was more too it! It came with gearbox seal, rear main seal and bearing etc etc so it was the whole deal!

can you give me a rough date you did it so I dont have to scroll your whole build thread for pics..?

There was a link to the page? It was back on 22 or something... Or look on Bookface ya nutta haha

GeeTeeTee. It's mostly first hand accounts not gossip.

And when you come off the clutch hard and everything gets too much for the drive line, I'm tipping you lose traction. Don't you reckon the clutch has a lot more to hold when you have 4 wheels making that traction.

They might be fine in your application, but that doesn't mean they're right for all.

GeeTeeTee. It's mostly first hand accounts not gossip.

And when you come off the clutch hard and everything gets too much for the drive line, I'm tipping you lose traction. Don't you reckon the clutch has a lot more to hold when you have 4 wheels making that traction.

They might be fine in your application, but that doesn't mean they're right for all.

Fair enough, but if you are coming off the clutch hard then its driver error? Wouldnt you be loading it up then slipping it to a degree so you do not smash your driveline? My clutch is actually a 33GTR clutch so it would suit your application anyway, just different driving style.

Jim Berry is quite good in terms of understanding your specific needs and purpose and building the clutch around that to suit! Pretty sure PJ is hooking his up pretty hard!

close page 21... :P

its a nice looking clutch...tricstar has a good point there though

Lol close enough is good enough to me :P And yes the point is valid.

Yep GTT. Agree with your points too, but on the strip and track it's hard to always do the nice soft engagement ( in the heat of the moment ).

Clutch selection is tuff, I've had singles, twins, triples, carbonic, carbon, puck, button, sprung centre, solid centre, and all have their pros and cons.

Yep GTT. Agree with your points too, but on the strip and track it's hard to always do the nice soft engagement ( in the heat of the moment ).

Clutch selection is tuff, I've had singles, twins, triples, carbonic, carbon, puck, button, sprung centre, solid centre, and all have their pros and cons.

Yep and when choosing one you need to pick for your own application not just get a clutch as it says 1000hp rated lol

But it sounds like you are pretty familiar with all kinds which is good, also good to see you mention all have pros and cons, there is always some sacrifice when you start pushing the boundaries of performance products, i say mine is nice to drive but thats not to say it doesnt shit me in Sydney traffic once its hot etc... But for my application its good, once i get some decent tyres and get it down the drags we will see how it holds up with my rookie driving!

Well my clutch is on its way! Jim looked after me alot with price which was good of him , soon as its in I will get it tuned to its potential and head to drags hopefully with no explosions lol. Then fingers crossed I get banned for running sub 11 then no need to worry just cruises and hill climbs etc. I'm thinking if switching back to street tyres instead of semis to make an easier weak point in driveline but will keep u all posted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...