Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, just looking for a bit of help from anyone familiar with the latest g4 software to help us get started.

Firstly my intentions are to simply run the car at idle, check over for any issues, ( I've assembled the engine, a factory motor with bolt ons) and will then be taken to a tuner to be dynoed. My auto sparky friend is doing the work wiring wise, and we're using an r34 g4 plugin ecu. He has done this previously with wire in ecu's using slightly older software.

Where we've come unstuck is setting the initial parameters for the ecu, i.e which map sensor, tps, timing etc. Can anyone point out where to bring down the anologue input tree? We've been clicking options - setup ecu parameters - which brings up anologue inputs. But we can't find the right options there for selecting the correct map sensor just options to setup limits of sensors.

Any insight or input would be greatly appreciated. Again, we won't be tuning the car, simply running and checking over for leaks or issues, which I'll sort before dropping to tuner. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433078-link-g4-pre-start-setup/
Share on other sites

Thanks guilt toy. I'm pretty sure this is what we are bringing up and it lists off all the inputs. But clicking on the map input brings up parameter properties, but there's no option to input what map sensor is installed. Are we missing a step before this? or should we be looking under another input? Have tried all the ones we thought were relevant, but brings up the same screen. We have selected the base map for standard r34 gtt. Again thanks for any help anyone can offer.

There should be a bar permanently on the left hand side of the screen for 'ECU Settings'

This is where you go to analog inputs to setup your sensors.

If it is not there then go to view (up the top) --> ECU Settings

This will bring up the parameters you need. Analog inputs in there is where you will find what your looking for

Keep in mind that my Link G4 base map had some of the inputs and outputs in the wrong spots (think the CAS was set as an output or something weird)

There is information to check everything in the help file, under the wiring or model specific information from memory

Thanks guilt toy. I'm pretty sure this is what we are bringing up and it lists off all the inputs. But clicking on the map input brings up parameter properties, but there's no option to input what map sensor is installed. Are we missing a step before this? or should we be looking under another input? Have tried all the ones we thought were relevant, but brings up the same screen. We have selected the base map for standard r34 gtt. Again thanks for any help anyone can offer.

I'm a bit confused about where you are looking, because it sounds like it's the right place. But it's very obvious once you are in there, so maybe you are in the wrong place. So I've attached a screen shot I took.

post-61550-0-88495800-1381396775_thumb.jpg

I'm a bit confused about where you are looking, because it sounds like it's the right place. But it's very obvious once you are in there, so maybe you are in the wrong place. So I've attached a screen shot I took.

attachicon.gifPCLink1.jpg

If you hit 'Parameters' on the side of the box with all the settings you will see the section he has gotten in to

Thanks for the help guys. Yes that is the screen we're in, but there's no option to change the type of map sensor. Another thing i'm wondering is if I've downloaded the correct software. The links a couple days old so I assumed it's the most up to date firmware g4. The other possible issue, is we tried the calibrate map sensor before realized had to select the correct sensor, so also going to try restore and start again. Will update how we go. Thanks

Well that's where your tuner had set it up or how it is on 33's. On the 34 GTT base map it is in the AN Volt 4 position. Not that its too critical, it's gonna be there somewhere and there's only gonna be one map sensor.

Yeah it may be different on other models, was just saying where it is and whats in it basically. I think thats why my settings were all out, because its an r33-r34 base map that is included with the download

The screen above shows you can either select a map sensor or use calibration tables to enter your own values

Yeah has worked resetting the ecu. I'm not sure if we'd changed some oddball setting somewhere else but it wasn't coming up like the screenshots you guys have taken. It is now. I'll leave now for sparky friend to come help. Thanks for your input and advice. One more q for everyone. The base 34 tune is for a standard car correct? Will I be doing any harm in running my car with it? Again will just be idled, not driven. It's running 666cc injectors, which I'm assuming will over fuel quite a bit. Cheers guys

Shouldnt do any harm just idling, though with 666cc injectors you might have a hard time getting it to idle. Will probably work long enough to check for fuel leaks if that is your intention. Injector settings are quite easy to change in the Link though, you could try adjusting them to get it to idle better. If you can't get it to work then just reload the base map, no harm done.

Pretty confident with the fuel side not leaking. I've also installed an oil cooler, I made the braided lines up so bit anxious about them. And installed a radiator header reservoir, there's ended up a few very hard to reach hoses associated with that under the plenum. and oil/water lines around the top mounted turbo. Touchwood, I've taken my time, and had a bitta experience with cars, but this car has alotta money tied up in it. Would be a bit let down if I fail at the end hurdle. All going well will finish the ecu pre start checks tomorrow, and look at firing it up.

Also the way I understand it there's a scaling option associated with the fueling tables? We could adjust this to help idle without changing individual values?

Cheers

For idle I think it would be easier to adjust the injector values. The scaling tables are based on the master value, so if that isn't right then you could be doing a lot of adjusting and guess work trying to get it to run. What injectors are they?

Siemens. When I bought the computer the tuner recommended them. I still needed a set, thought he wouldn't suggest something they weren't getting good results with. He did recommend standard replacement r35 injectors, saying they were bolt in 560cc I think, but were twice the price. I'll see what happens, hopefully don't need to adjust anything. Also forgot it's Bathurst today, haven't watched whole race for couple years now, but like to watch some of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You don’t need to use full throttle all the time to break these blocks, 500kw at the wheels in more then enough to break them even with an occasional squirt. Hell I’ve seen them break under 400kw
    • A work around is to install the R35 card style AFM/MAF on the cold side of the intercooler piping and the BOV on the hot side piping. Works well, also you can combat the revs dropping by adding a bit more ignition timing on the idle ignition timing table to slow the rate of RPM drop.
    • Understood. If you dont have a ridiculous limit,  Tune, T's and P's are in check, and arent bashing it all the time and doing the due deligence for maintenance(inc oil analysis) then its pretty safe. 100% agree, let your right food control it to some extent.
    • So these external kits with the machined block for remote solenoid mount will only work on a NEO head and RB30 or RB26 bottom end   For an R33 head on a 26 bottom end the remote vct kit is to resolve RB26 manifold adaptor plates etc  IF you try to use the remote VCT on an RB30 or RB26 bottom end with an R33 head then  you can starve the cam journal??? I have one of these kits from bits I had years ago before plans changed  I don't understand how that tracks with this video   https://youtu.be/RuPiI22Mplk?feature=shared   This looks like I can run the v termite vct kit to feed the VCT on an R33 head on an RB26 bottom end?!?!?   Lol.... don't v have these problems on RB20s
    • Yeah i know that MAF is no no for this type of BoV. The engine has no BoV and "hose/pipes" ..it was all deleted (or probably it was not even on the engine when it was bought  ) It does that "sutututu" noise which i kinda do not want(atmospheric is better IMO...but standalone ECU)  What are the cons of running without blow off on stock RB25DET NEO. It running 5-7 PSI max (it has boost controller)   EDIT: and can Nistune be "tuned" to know there is no BoV to i dont know "know" and be better for a car? I read so many info about no BoV. One guy saying it is bad and hurting the turbo/engine/car and other that it does not...  
×
×
  • Create New...