Jump to content
SAU Community

Found these in a box at my doorstep today...

Ronin 09

By Ronin 09,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR32 Rising Star

GTR32

Posted
Posted
Ronin 09- where did you get these and how much???

Looking for an exact set for BCNR33.

PM me with the details please....

JAG:

I've been looking at these also -

Advan $1500 in stock

Autobarn $1100 2 weeks

Jap Motosport $1000 2 weeks

all are approx price.

I'm very interested to see how they perform.

Regards

GTR32 Rising Star

GTR32

Posted
Posted
OK, I didn't really, I had to get someone to pick them up... what do you think?

They are Trust 3" primaries... :D

Hi Ronin;

I am seriously contemplating some of these myself. AFAIK there is no data available that compares stock, HKS, CES and Trust on an equal basis and although the Trust appear to be the best design it's difficult to know if their extra cost I justified. I'd would really appreciate it if you'd share your results after fitting them please.

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
JAG:

I've been looking at these also -  

Advan $1500 in stock

Autobarn $1100 2 weeks  

Jap Motosport $1000 2 weeks

all are approx price.  

I'm very interested to see how they perform.

Regards

*** thats expensive for a pair of dump pipes.

The actual material, the price to laser cut the flange and the bit of mandrel bending needed is bugger all when u see that selling price

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Ronin;

I am seriously contemplating some of these myself. AFAIK there is no data available that compares stock, HKS, CES and Trust on an equal basis and although the Trust appear to be the best design it's difficult to know if their extra cost I justified. I'd would really appreciate it if you'd share your results after fitting them please.

Hey GTR32, get a set from Nengun with JAGR33 - maybe the shipping could be less...

The only issue that Gerald from Ice Performance can see (and I tend to agree to an extent) is that the primaries are very long, and hence a bit heavy to hang off the side of the turbo. But then, the bottom end of the primary dumps is supported by the Y pipe to the cat, so that isn't such an issue, methinks.

They are certainly the best design I have seen by far for stock / turbos that bolt on using the same dump system. The HKS seem (I can only tell from the pics i've seen online) to be not as well made.

INASNT, true, they are expensive, but they are hand welded in Japan - believe me the workmanship is incredible. It is all de-burred inside, the flanges have no welding slag etc., all in all an excellent piece of metal work. You are paying for the best.

As I said in my other thread, my mechanic and I are going to tackle it. Will let you know what happens (could be a few weeks though!)

Cheers

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
INASNT, true, they are expensive, but they are hand welded in Japan - believe me the workmanship is incredible. It is all de-burred inside, the flanges have no welding slag etc., all in all an excellent piece of metal work. You are paying for the best.

usually the small items like that are welded by machine and dont need to be cleaned up after coz it does it so perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...