Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys n girls looking into buying a 180 for a bit of fun at the drift practices , not really for me but for the wife and id love to know what if there are any rules and regs that we would need to adhear to to go out and have a blast

So far ive read that headlights,taillights,long sleve, long pants and an australian std helmet are the minimum but what about half/full cages bolt in ? Weld in ? Basically anything i would need to know before rocking up on the next saturday night to only be turned away....

Cheers in advance !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/
Share on other sites

What you have been told is correct aslong as all lights work u have a seat belt and long pants n shirt is all u need. although i recommend a half cage for a bit of safety it not a necessity.

But what u MUST DO IS HAVE FUN !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7062129
Share on other sites

Cool stuff guys

The wifes hell bent on having a drift car so we have been looking around at anything that already has a cage or half bare min just to up the safety level a touch more

On that note please flick me a p.m if anyone has something ready for a slide around the 5k mark, dont want to spend heaps as i really dont know if she will like it enough to buy something decent so just a hack for now.

Hope to be out at next prac to make arses of our selves :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7062304
Share on other sites

Hey that would be great, just put a deposit on a 180sx that is set up for drifting so we will see how it goes, going to chuck it on my dyno first and see if it is tuned like the bloke said and maybe have a fiddle with the power fc ( only tune ford xr6t's )so hopefully i dont blow it up lol

Cant wait to get it out as the wife is hanging to learn how to slide and iam apparently the teacher ( only ever power skidded 400kw barges ) so its going to be a dumb and dumber type of thing i can see

More details on tailem bend would be great as i know sfa

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7063759
Share on other sites

Ok fellas i know its not a skyline but its more drift related and this is where i think the skyline community will dominate

This 180 has a drift button handbrake set up, what are the gains by going hydro handbrake if any ? Only starting out but if its "easier" ill do it because the wife will need everything on her side to tackle this art form

Any info will be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7068303
Share on other sites

Hydros are just a bit more dependable because you know its always gonna lock up 100% of the time. A standard handbrake that's nice and tight with some decent shoes will work just as well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7068423
Share on other sites

Arhh i see just a bit more of a consistency thing !

The car has a half cage and a pile of other bitz but i have nfi if there good or not, this is the list from the add, shout out if something needs to be changed or added please

Nissan 180sx drift car

Rebuilt s14 sr20det less then 1000km on it

Tein coil overs all round

S14 manual gear box

Camber tops

Surge tank set up

Sparco 4 point harnesses

Racaro bucket seat

Koyorad alloy Radiator with thermo

Fmic

Holford motors cams spec bolt in half cage with harness bar

Adjustable arms all round

Catch can

T3t4 turbo with braided lines

Spiltfire coil packs

Fuel pressure reg

Boost tee

Carbon fiber vented hood

Locked diff

770 cc injectors

Aircraft alloy winged and gated sump

New flywheel

New extreme drift clutch

Oil cooler and filter relocation kit

Metal head gasket

Rocker arm stoppers

5stud conversion all round

Brake upgrade

Wide body front and rear

Rear strut brace

Engine damper

Battery relocated

Semi solid k frame bushes

Apexi power FC with hand controller

Drift BOV

Rotas warped in federal 595 up front

Also comes with spare rack ends wheel studs and silicon rad hoses Also with 8 spare rims 4 of which have 100% brand new tread.

The interior has been stripped and sound deadening has been removed. Paint is a little rough but can include 8L of plasti dip if I get right price...

This car was dynoed at Fisher performance 3 months ago at 242.5 rwkw. I

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7069006
Share on other sites

All you need to start with is decent diff (even a welded one with be ok), a working handbrake and a decent seat to hold you in. It looks like that car has all the essentials and more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7069122
Share on other sites

Before I went out for the first time I went to watch it and see what the go was. When I got to actually go out I would just head for the middle of the corner with a bit of speed and then pull the hand brake on then turn into the corner. The car would start to slide the rear out. While I was putting the hand brake on I would have the clutch in getting the gear ready. Give it some revs and then remove hand brake and drop the clutch while turning opposite lock. I also hit the wall in last session but I had fun. Would love to do it again one day.

You sound like you have got a good start with the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7069447
Share on other sites

Drift school is worth every cent, the boys out on the track are super supportive and the vibe is awesome friendly.

Get out there in whatever you got, don't stress about being over setup and you'll soon quickly workout what you need in terms of hydro, parts etc :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7069751
Share on other sites

Well we did not make it out, chucked the 180 on the dyno late friday night to find issues, bloody head gasket had gone and we have custard filling

The bloke we bought it off sent the new built engine to fisher performance to have his other better head fitted and a metal head gasket fitted and then tuned

Well something happened warped or cracked or just not torqued up correctly, trying to get it sussed out now hopefully fisher come to the party but doubtful

Anywhoo driving out to see the drift prac had a bingle in the F6 :( bad weekend but finally got out there to have a look and lots of fun to be had

Just over a month to get ready for this track day at tailem bend now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433279-drift-at-lala/#findComment-7081538
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...