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Help, I Think My Turbo Died

wookster

By wookster,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

Fair nuff, though for future reference or anyone else's benefit, the turbo and exhaust manifold can all be removed with simple hand tools. You'll need a few sizes of socket wrenches for the tight spots, and a selection of spanners. Other than that you may need to get a thread repair guy out, as I did when a stud broke (or probably was already broken). Good time to replace all the studs and gaskets.

As a matter of fact I think I only had to get underneath the car to get at 3 bolts. Hear that M35 guys? Its soooooo hard on an RB......

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wookster
wookster

So just went to get in my car and found a nice little trickle of dried water that had run behind left front wheel. Looked a little closer and it was seemingly rusty water. Looked for some indicator of

PN-Mad
PN-Mad

Sounds more like a coolant leak from something, and probably a neglected cooling system. Pin point the exact place the water is coming out, a leak does not mean the turbo is gone, but it probably me

PN-Mad
PN-Mad

Yeah, broken exhaust studs is a RB trait. Its pretty well documented. Save yourself the hassle/heartache and do what Dale said - get a thread guy.

wookster Enthusiast

wookster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Fair nuff, though for future reference or anyone else's benefit, the turbo and exhaust manifold can all be removed with simple hand tools. You'll need a few sizes of socket wrenches for the tight spots, and a selection of spanners. Other than that you may need to get a thread repair guy out, as I did when a stud broke (or probably was already broken). Good time to replace all the studs and gaskets.

 

As a matter of fact I think I only had to get underneath the car to get at 3 bolts. Hear that M35 guys? Its soooooo hard on an RB......

The biggest thing that scared me away from the repair was how to do the welch plug(s) themselves as it's not something I've ever done and no-one I know has done.

I looked over what it was to get the manifold off and it didn't seem like it would have been a major issue.

Just sold a car too so I'm cashed up now to get the Stag done quickly and professionally as it is my daily driver.

533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

Welchies are not that bad to do. The key to successful repairs on anything is prep work AND cleanliness! Using a sealant like Permatex aviation No.3 is also ideal, especially on an older block.

  • 3 weeks later...
wookster Enthusiast

wookster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So here's an update on my stagea.

Mechanics have done a bunch of work

- replaced 4 welch plugs on that side of the block

- replace crank seals

- replace cam seals

- replace timing belt

- replace thermostat

- replace water pump

- replaced inner cv boots

- replaced turbo (stock v45 i supplied as the old one had a terrible whine)

- fit supplied aftermarket oil filter re-location kit (inner feed tube thing was too big to fit in the block apparently :()

- flush water

- replace oil & filter

Picker her up last friday arvo and got it home late that night. Did some driving around on Saturday morning all good.

When for a trip down to the gold coast and had it overheat quite bad once and not so bad three other times afterwards... only on the highway @ ~110km/h under load and not in peak hour traffic.

Saw the mechanics again this morning and they've basically confirmed my fears the original factory radiator is either blocked/getting blocked. They flushed it once after doing the welch plugs and when I got them to have a quick look today the water under the cap is starting get very brown again.

Couldn't see an obvious leak/crack or excess pressure build-up so we're only assuming this is the problem so far.

Can anyone recommend some replacement radiators that I should look at?

The mechanic suggested not anything much more than 45mm thick as this could restrict the airflow too much.

I'm thinking that I can get one off the net an replace it my self and flush the system a couple of times.

Any thoughts are appreciated, if you've read this far :P

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

Most of the buckchoy alloy 42mm ones will do an acceptable job.

SAU NSW members get a discount on Fenix radiators and the one I installed in the S2 Stagea works perfectly and fitted with minor shroud trimming. The radiator in the GTS-t fitted without any trimming.

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wookster Enthusiast

wookster

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Most of the buckchoy alloy 42mm ones will do an acceptable job.

SAU NSW members get a discount on Fenix radiators and the one I installed in the S2 Stagea works perfectly and fitted with minor shroud trimming. The radiator in the GTS-t fitted without any trimming.

Edit: i'm in QLD and not an SAU paid member

Had a quick ebay browse last night and i can see 'mishimoto', 'koyo' and some other ones that allegedly fit the WGNC34.

Thinking I might just buy one of these and fit it myself.

Another interesting thing to note; if I brake really suddenly the engine stalls... mechanic mentioned it might be the AFM recognises the lack of airflow and the ECU thinks the ignition has been switched off...

Edited by wookster
stock stagea Collaborator

stock stagea

Posted
Posted

One thing that you need to remember is that the oil cooler for the transmission also runs through the radiator, and most alloy radiators don't have this built in. It is simple to put an external cooler for the trans but sucks when you forget and have to order a taxi to get you to the spare parts shop!!!!!!

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Edit: i'm in QLD and not an SAU paid memberHad a quick ebay browse last night and i can see 'mishimoto', 'koyo' and some other ones that allegedly fit the WGNC34. Thinking I might just buy one of these and fit it myself.Another interesting thing to note; if I brake really suddenly the engine stalls... mechanic mentioned it might be the AFM recognises the lack of airflow and the ECU thinks the ignition has been switched off...

time for a new mechanic :) The ecu doesn't have to wonder if the ignition is on or not, is connected to the ignition.
wookster Enthusiast

wookster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

One thing that you need to remember is that the oil cooler for the transmission also runs through the radiator, and most alloy radiators don't have this built in. It is simple to put an external cooler for the trans but sucks when you forget and have to order a taxi to get you to the spare parts shop!!!!!!

Hahahah oh dear that story sounds terrible.

Sorry mate, it's a manual (factory RS-FOUR-S) so I believe there is no tranny cooling you mention.

wookster Enthusiast

wookster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

time for a new mechanic :) The ecu doesn't have to wonder if the ignition is on or not, is connected to the ignition.

Hmmmm... so is it possible that if enough air isn't flowing could this ruin mixture and maybe flood the engine?

Braking hard and it stalling on me makes me very confused...

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

Edit: i'm in QLD and not an SAU paid member Had a quick ebay browse last night and i can see 'mishimoto', 'koyo' and some other ones that allegedly fit the WGNC34. Thinking I might just buy one of these and fit it myself. Another interesting thing to note; if I brake really suddenly the engine stalls... mechanic mentioned it might be the AFM recognises the lack of airflow and the ECU thinks the ignition has been switched off...

I realise you are not a NSW member but the alloy radiators are more or less the same design so they will fit regardless of where you buy it from.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Another interesting thing to note; if I brake really suddenly the engine stalls... mechanic mentioned it might be the AFM recognises the lack of airflow and the ECU thinks the ignition has been switched off...

Is your brake booster leaking?

533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

Is your brake booster leaking?

+1

We're going to need alittle more info.....

Has the brake booster hose been off? There is a one way valve in the hose.

What condition is the air filter in?

What is the idle like?

Does it run abit rich?

wookster Enthusiast

wookster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

+1

 

We're going to need alittle more info.....

 

Has the brake booster hose been off? There is a one way valve in the hose.

Not by me, the mechanic might have...

What condition is the air filter in?

Pretty good. Previous owner had a oilable one in the factory airbox which I keep reasonably clean, though I havent cleaned and re-oiled in about 6 months, maybe ~6000kms.

What is the idle like?

Idle seems fine, ~650 rpm when up to running temp

Does it run abit rich?

The AFR guage (aftermarket - previous owner) on the dash indicates not lean or rich at cruising speeds. Not sure on a good way to guage richness off the top of my head?
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Thanks, I've heard some people like em. PWR was recommended as the top notch ones from the mechanic (~$900!)

Koyo is the OEM; very high quality product. Priced accordingly.

More than one person on this forum would disagree with the opinion of your mechanic.

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