Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok my engine warning light has come on again , the code is 0171 (system too lean) iv had this code come up before so I check it all out and turned one of my hoses come off the air intake, assuming that's what it was I fixed it cleared the code but now it's back, anyone with any help ideas to what it could be would be much appreciated, also I have rechecked all hoses and clamps all seem to be fine so now I'm lost

Did they change the fuel filter?

(it is a section of the pump assembly in the fuel tank)

If it hasn't been done, it may still be on it's original production line filter and might be quite clogged.

Just a thought.

  • 1 year later...

Hey guys, didn't want to start a new thread. Mine has the same code coming up. Vac lines replaced and cable tied. Car seems to run fine but don't want to go and blow it...

However I want to change the fuel pump anyway, is there a write up on this?? Can't seem to find one for the life of me. Would be happy to take pics and do a write up if that is the case.

So does anyone have a part number for the external filter? What's the best drop in pump to use and so on... Your wisdom is greatly appreciated as always.

Zach

Edited by zelda

This is the best one, and closely resembles our car.

Care of Scotty;

Fuel tank O-ring: 17342-01A00
Fuel filter strainer: 16400-4M405

Contact Scotty for a fuel pump.

http://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/190372-walbro-255-installation-diy.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
    • The pinchweld is fine, even with a trolley jack, so long as you're not actually pushing on the pinchweld itself. More to the point, we shouldn't talk about lifting or supporting on the pinchweld, we should talk about using the sill "jacking points", which just happen to be adjacent to the pinchweld. I just have dense rubber blocks with grooves in them for each of the chassis stands and the trolley jack, that I use at the sill jacking points if/when I have to lift/support there. They put all the load onto the steel pad of the jacking point and not the pinchweld. As intended.
    • Makes sense.  I would do something different if I felt like there was a better option. Generally the only other area I'm happy to jack on is where I want to put the stand. The pinch weld is not an option for me for either the jack or stands, so very limited options overall.  Plus never having had an issue with doing this, has kinda reinforced in my mind that it's fine. I'd do it on any car without a second thought these days lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...