Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im thinking of selling my 1995 r33gtr,non vspec.I purchased the car of Adam Neish of JEM fame.I purchased the car in early august with a view to do an occasional track day and weekend car.Due to a new house purchase I will be going to a property with a double garage,and thinking of selling this vehicle and my daily ride and going back to one car.

About the car,it is very clean silver vehicle,with carbon fibre wing insert,tinted windows,led taillights,clean xenon headlights.It is rolling on rare Rays SE37s in black,with brand new 265/352/18s federal rs-r semi slicks.Lowered with aftermarket springs and bilstein shocks,and various aftermarket bushes.

Standard bottom end,relocated oil filter,large greedy fdront mount and piping,750cc injs,turbosmart fuel reg,044 intank,quality high mount steam pipe manifold with Precision 6266 turbo,,unknown brand smallish cams,3'' manderal bent exhaust,ballistic 100cpi cat leading into nismo muffler with carbon tip.Haltech platinum pro looks after the tune.As you would expect the tune is absolutely spot on.

5 speed box is nice to use with heavy duty clutch.

Inside,very clean gtr interior with white face nismo dash and centre gauges,hks pillar mounted boost guage,blitz electronic boost control and blitz turbo timer.Aftermarket cd stereo with removable sub.

Have the dyno sheet,on low boost 18 psi 333.1kws at all 4 wheels and on 20psi tapering off to 19psi it makes 343kws or 460 hp.Adam has done a very safe tune and believes at this tune will last.

I have never taracked it but did race it once at wsid after having the car for 2 days,not knowing how to launch a 4wd car it ran 11.9 @ 119mph.with a slow 60ft time,should run 11.5s with a decent driver.

I do have brand new for it a set of 1000cc injs,arp head studs and walbro 460l/ph pump.We were going to do a e85 tune and shoot for 400kws at the wheels,but deceided not too.

Im looking for $22,500 for the car,and $23,000 with all the other bits injs,studs and pump.My number is 0410993105,and I will try and load some photos later on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434211-eoi-1995-r33-gtr460hpex-jem-car/
Share on other sites

post-117676-0-31312500-1383732344_thumb.jpgpost-117676-0-15140200-1383732380_thumb.jpgpost-117676-0-15619900-1383732403_thumb.jpgHave just listed the car on ebay and will also do carsales,some more pics.Have just done a carbon wrap bonet using avery Denison vinyl,can be removed.Listed it for $21,000,still hoping to get up near $22,500 with some extras,and some more pics.Call 0410993105
post-117676-0-31312500-1383732344_thumb.jpgpost-117676-0-15140200-1383732380_thumb.jpgpost-117676-0-15619900-1383732403_thumb.jpgHave just listed the car on ebay and will also do carsales,some more pics.Have just done a carbon wrap bonet using avery Denison vinyl,can be removed.Listed it for $21,000,still hoping to get up near $22,500 with some extras,and some more pics.Call 0410993105

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...