Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone PLEASE tell me where this RB30 Come out of.
It's driving me insane, i was told it was a vl series 2 block, but i dont believe it is after ringing holden.
bought it off a shop and had it worked on.. they said it was great block rarraa.

Don't want to really mention the shopp at the present moment.

That aside , heres the number 045903a

Please help me if you can.

Thanks.

  • Like 1

Can't really see from the pics but are you worried about where the second idler needs to go (exhaust cam side)? It does look like you don't have the machined spot but there are ways around it.

ive been unlucky because my block had casting marks where the idler pulley goes.. usuallly thry are flat. i even asked anthony from dahtone and he said his never seen a block with them marks on it...

its always nice to know where thr block come from

Edited by sultanaz

ive been unlucky because my block had casting marks where the idler pulley goes.. usuallly thry are flat. i even asked anthony from dahtone and he said his never seen a block with them marks on it...

its always nice to know where thr block come from

So why didn't you take a photo of that area, and ask the question directly? Anyway, I guessed it! points to me. ... Like I said the are ways around it. seeing as engine is assembled machining it might be a little difficult but still an option, the other is to make a solid bracket to hold Idler or go nizpro style and use idler and tensioner above water pump. That would be the easiest but finding a correct belt would become the problem. Edited by superben

as it is a series one block I don't think you have a turbo oil feed plug there? I assume you could drill into the gallery and tap it but I wouldn't do that now as it's assembled. I would tee piece off oil pressure valve.

No such thing as a series 1 or 2 block.

The early non turbo blocks had no oil feed hole and water hole drilled and tapped in the block.

Later non turbo blocks did, like the original turbo blocks, this is what most people call a series 2 for some reason, Holden did many running changes during the production years to the blocks.

How you can tell yours is a later block (like mine) is by looking at the first picture, the hot side.

Between welsh plug 3 and 4 is a drilled and tapped hole a little below them, thats your oil feed and the 2 holes above one another after the last welsh plug on that side, if they are drilled and tapped, that's your water feed.

Early non turbo blocks were not drilled and threaded in those places, they just had a cast area where you could dill and tap them yourself, you needed to do this yourself, later blocks that everyone called series 2 blocks had these drilled and threaded from the factory.

Going by your pics they look drilled and threaded......if so its a later block that everyone calls a series 2 block.

Edited by GTRPSI

The other difference on the blocks is where the Idler bolts on. You want to use a block with the oil feed plugged ready to use and the Idler location machined and tapped. Perhaps people call it a series2 block as the series 2 vl probably has the changes on the block, so not so much the block is series 2 but that it come feom a series 2 car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...