Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone PLEASE tell me where this RB30 Come out of.
It's driving me insane, i was told it was a vl series 2 block, but i dont believe it is after ringing holden.
bought it off a shop and had it worked on.. they said it was great block rarraa.

Don't want to really mention the shopp at the present moment.

That aside , heres the number 045903a

Please help me if you can.

Thanks.

  • Like 1

Can't really see from the pics but are you worried about where the second idler needs to go (exhaust cam side)? It does look like you don't have the machined spot but there are ways around it.

ive been unlucky because my block had casting marks where the idler pulley goes.. usuallly thry are flat. i even asked anthony from dahtone and he said his never seen a block with them marks on it...

its always nice to know where thr block come from

Edited by sultanaz

ive been unlucky because my block had casting marks where the idler pulley goes.. usuallly thry are flat. i even asked anthony from dahtone and he said his never seen a block with them marks on it...

its always nice to know where thr block come from

So why didn't you take a photo of that area, and ask the question directly? Anyway, I guessed it! points to me. ... Like I said the are ways around it. seeing as engine is assembled machining it might be a little difficult but still an option, the other is to make a solid bracket to hold Idler or go nizpro style and use idler and tensioner above water pump. That would be the easiest but finding a correct belt would become the problem. Edited by superben

as it is a series one block I don't think you have a turbo oil feed plug there? I assume you could drill into the gallery and tap it but I wouldn't do that now as it's assembled. I would tee piece off oil pressure valve.

No such thing as a series 1 or 2 block.

The early non turbo blocks had no oil feed hole and water hole drilled and tapped in the block.

Later non turbo blocks did, like the original turbo blocks, this is what most people call a series 2 for some reason, Holden did many running changes during the production years to the blocks.

How you can tell yours is a later block (like mine) is by looking at the first picture, the hot side.

Between welsh plug 3 and 4 is a drilled and tapped hole a little below them, thats your oil feed and the 2 holes above one another after the last welsh plug on that side, if they are drilled and tapped, that's your water feed.

Early non turbo blocks were not drilled and threaded in those places, they just had a cast area where you could dill and tap them yourself, you needed to do this yourself, later blocks that everyone called series 2 blocks had these drilled and threaded from the factory.

Going by your pics they look drilled and threaded......if so its a later block that everyone calls a series 2 block.

Edited by GTRPSI

The other difference on the blocks is where the Idler bolts on. You want to use a block with the oil feed plugged ready to use and the Idler location machined and tapped. Perhaps people call it a series2 block as the series 2 vl probably has the changes on the block, so not so much the block is series 2 but that it come feom a series 2 car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...