Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone PLEASE tell me where this RB30 Come out of.
It's driving me insane, i was told it was a vl series 2 block, but i dont believe it is after ringing holden.
bought it off a shop and had it worked on.. they said it was great block rarraa.

Don't want to really mention the shopp at the present moment.

That aside , heres the number 045903a

Please help me if you can.

Thanks.

  • Like 1

Can't really see from the pics but are you worried about where the second idler needs to go (exhaust cam side)? It does look like you don't have the machined spot but there are ways around it.

ive been unlucky because my block had casting marks where the idler pulley goes.. usuallly thry are flat. i even asked anthony from dahtone and he said his never seen a block with them marks on it...

its always nice to know where thr block come from

Edited by sultanaz

ive been unlucky because my block had casting marks where the idler pulley goes.. usuallly thry are flat. i even asked anthony from dahtone and he said his never seen a block with them marks on it...

its always nice to know where thr block come from

So why didn't you take a photo of that area, and ask the question directly? Anyway, I guessed it! points to me. ... Like I said the are ways around it. seeing as engine is assembled machining it might be a little difficult but still an option, the other is to make a solid bracket to hold Idler or go nizpro style and use idler and tensioner above water pump. That would be the easiest but finding a correct belt would become the problem. Edited by superben

as it is a series one block I don't think you have a turbo oil feed plug there? I assume you could drill into the gallery and tap it but I wouldn't do that now as it's assembled. I would tee piece off oil pressure valve.

No such thing as a series 1 or 2 block.

The early non turbo blocks had no oil feed hole and water hole drilled and tapped in the block.

Later non turbo blocks did, like the original turbo blocks, this is what most people call a series 2 for some reason, Holden did many running changes during the production years to the blocks.

How you can tell yours is a later block (like mine) is by looking at the first picture, the hot side.

Between welsh plug 3 and 4 is a drilled and tapped hole a little below them, thats your oil feed and the 2 holes above one another after the last welsh plug on that side, if they are drilled and tapped, that's your water feed.

Early non turbo blocks were not drilled and threaded in those places, they just had a cast area where you could dill and tap them yourself, you needed to do this yourself, later blocks that everyone called series 2 blocks had these drilled and threaded from the factory.

Going by your pics they look drilled and threaded......if so its a later block that everyone calls a series 2 block.

Edited by GTRPSI

The other difference on the blocks is where the Idler bolts on. You want to use a block with the oil feed plugged ready to use and the Idler location machined and tapped. Perhaps people call it a series2 block as the series 2 vl probably has the changes on the block, so not so much the block is series 2 but that it come feom a series 2 car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...