Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone PLEASE tell me where this RB30 Come out of.
It's driving me insane, i was told it was a vl series 2 block, but i dont believe it is after ringing holden.
bought it off a shop and had it worked on.. they said it was great block rarraa.

Don't want to really mention the shopp at the present moment.

That aside , heres the number 045903a

Please help me if you can.

Thanks.

  • Like 1

Can't really see from the pics but are you worried about where the second idler needs to go (exhaust cam side)? It does look like you don't have the machined spot but there are ways around it.

ive been unlucky because my block had casting marks where the idler pulley goes.. usuallly thry are flat. i even asked anthony from dahtone and he said his never seen a block with them marks on it...

its always nice to know where thr block come from

Edited by sultanaz

ive been unlucky because my block had casting marks where the idler pulley goes.. usuallly thry are flat. i even asked anthony from dahtone and he said his never seen a block with them marks on it...

its always nice to know where thr block come from

So why didn't you take a photo of that area, and ask the question directly? Anyway, I guessed it! points to me. ... Like I said the are ways around it. seeing as engine is assembled machining it might be a little difficult but still an option, the other is to make a solid bracket to hold Idler or go nizpro style and use idler and tensioner above water pump. That would be the easiest but finding a correct belt would become the problem. Edited by superben

as it is a series one block I don't think you have a turbo oil feed plug there? I assume you could drill into the gallery and tap it but I wouldn't do that now as it's assembled. I would tee piece off oil pressure valve.

No such thing as a series 1 or 2 block.

The early non turbo blocks had no oil feed hole and water hole drilled and tapped in the block.

Later non turbo blocks did, like the original turbo blocks, this is what most people call a series 2 for some reason, Holden did many running changes during the production years to the blocks.

How you can tell yours is a later block (like mine) is by looking at the first picture, the hot side.

Between welsh plug 3 and 4 is a drilled and tapped hole a little below them, thats your oil feed and the 2 holes above one another after the last welsh plug on that side, if they are drilled and tapped, that's your water feed.

Early non turbo blocks were not drilled and threaded in those places, they just had a cast area where you could dill and tap them yourself, you needed to do this yourself, later blocks that everyone called series 2 blocks had these drilled and threaded from the factory.

Going by your pics they look drilled and threaded......if so its a later block that everyone calls a series 2 block.

Edited by GTRPSI

The other difference on the blocks is where the Idler bolts on. You want to use a block with the oil feed plugged ready to use and the Idler location machined and tapped. Perhaps people call it a series2 block as the series 2 vl probably has the changes on the block, so not so much the block is series 2 but that it come feom a series 2 car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...