Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so last summer i was having an issue with my fuel pump not priming and i had to just reselect the key to "on" a couple times and it would kick on and fire up. well at the end of the summer it was getting worse and worse and now it wont turn on the pump at all. The fuel pump relay is FINE.

If i ground the ecu signal wire at the relay the relay clicks and pump turns on (the car wont run this way though. ecu doesnt want to give spark like this). The ecu is not sending the signal anymore. loose wire maybe? nope. here's the weird part, checking continuity between signal wire and ground, with ignition to "off" i have closed circuit and when i select ignition to "on" the circuit opens. so the ecu is basically doing the opposite of what it is supposed to do. im skeptical that it is anything to do with the wiring, i did the harness conversion myself soldered/heat shrink all connections. Not to mention i drove it for a year and a half probably about 7000km including a trip down to the states with no issues at all.

i think something is loose within the ecu, every signal being sent from ecu is intermittent and sporadic. the nissan datascan will only connect sometimes, before when it wasn't so bad i could connect nissan datascan use that to turn the pump on then start the engine. now when ever i do manage to connect and turn the pump off it will fire up for a second then shut off and loose connection with datascan.

i took the ecu apart and had a look, nothing looks melted or anything. gave the larger grounding points a light sand and added a good grounding wire to case ground it. no change. also with ignition in "on" if i move around the ecu the pump will sporadically turn on almost like a flutter its so fast.. any ideas?????? what are my options?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434689-rb25neo-ecu-help/
Share on other sites

If you can move the ecu around and the pump kicks in/ out then its a problem with your wiring harness or plug at the ecu end

Is the harness plugged in nicely or is it overtightened and has a bend in it?

have you ruled out battery issues?

It sounds like a short somewhere, can you run a new wire just for test purposes between possible problem terminals? I once had a car where a wire had been damaged and was cut through the insulation/frayed where it passed through the firewall... (turned out it was the positive to the coils... :rolleyes: ) it was earthing out on the firewall itself.

If you can move the ecu around and the pump kicks in/ out then its a problem with your wiring harness or plug at the ecu end

Is the harness plugged in nicely or is it overtightened and has a bend in it?

yea i didnt over tighten the bolt. just until it bottemed out. but yea, theres definately a slight bend in the connection thats for sure. the center sits in deeper then the ends of the plug.. how would i fix this??

If there is any curvature in the ECU plug at all you could be in for a world of trouble with pins not contacting properly. It may have been abused in the past. Take the plug off and inspect each and every pin to ensure that they are all fully inserted into the back of the plug and latched in. Then take a look at the curvature of the plug and if there is a mm or more of bend in it consider getting another one from a wreck's loom and swap over. Check the ECU's socket pins too to make sure it's all kosher in there. A little twist or bend can prevent the plug from wanting to pull in. And when you assemble, use a great deal of mech sympathy. Don't just use the bolt to pull it in. Make sure you can assist/wiggle the plug in with your hand at the start and several times during the bolt up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...