Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so last summer i was having an issue with my fuel pump not priming and i had to just reselect the key to "on" a couple times and it would kick on and fire up. well at the end of the summer it was getting worse and worse and now it wont turn on the pump at all. The fuel pump relay is FINE.

If i ground the ecu signal wire at the relay the relay clicks and pump turns on (the car wont run this way though. ecu doesnt want to give spark like this). The ecu is not sending the signal anymore. loose wire maybe? nope. here's the weird part, checking continuity between signal wire and ground, with ignition to "off" i have closed circuit and when i select ignition to "on" the circuit opens. so the ecu is basically doing the opposite of what it is supposed to do. im skeptical that it is anything to do with the wiring, i did the harness conversion myself soldered/heat shrink all connections. Not to mention i drove it for a year and a half probably about 7000km including a trip down to the states with no issues at all.

i think something is loose within the ecu, every signal being sent from ecu is intermittent and sporadic. the nissan datascan will only connect sometimes, before when it wasn't so bad i could connect nissan datascan use that to turn the pump on then start the engine. now when ever i do manage to connect and turn the pump off it will fire up for a second then shut off and loose connection with datascan.

i took the ecu apart and had a look, nothing looks melted or anything. gave the larger grounding points a light sand and added a good grounding wire to case ground it. no change. also with ignition in "on" if i move around the ecu the pump will sporadically turn on almost like a flutter its so fast.. any ideas?????? what are my options?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434689-rb25neo-ecu-help/
Share on other sites

If you can move the ecu around and the pump kicks in/ out then its a problem with your wiring harness or plug at the ecu end

Is the harness plugged in nicely or is it overtightened and has a bend in it?

have you ruled out battery issues?

It sounds like a short somewhere, can you run a new wire just for test purposes between possible problem terminals? I once had a car where a wire had been damaged and was cut through the insulation/frayed where it passed through the firewall... (turned out it was the positive to the coils... :rolleyes: ) it was earthing out on the firewall itself.

If you can move the ecu around and the pump kicks in/ out then its a problem with your wiring harness or plug at the ecu end

Is the harness plugged in nicely or is it overtightened and has a bend in it?

yea i didnt over tighten the bolt. just until it bottemed out. but yea, theres definately a slight bend in the connection thats for sure. the center sits in deeper then the ends of the plug.. how would i fix this??

If there is any curvature in the ECU plug at all you could be in for a world of trouble with pins not contacting properly. It may have been abused in the past. Take the plug off and inspect each and every pin to ensure that they are all fully inserted into the back of the plug and latched in. Then take a look at the curvature of the plug and if there is a mm or more of bend in it consider getting another one from a wreck's loom and swap over. Check the ECU's socket pins too to make sure it's all kosher in there. A little twist or bend can prevent the plug from wanting to pull in. And when you assemble, use a great deal of mech sympathy. Don't just use the bolt to pull it in. Make sure you can assist/wiggle the plug in with your hand at the start and several times during the bolt up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
    • You sir, big win tonight. Precision never supplied compressor maps in the past and Idk when they started, but it seems they only offer for a few of the older gen2's which is exactly what I have. I punched in some numbers and seem to have gone with the wrong turbo. 600-700whp isn't in the most efficient area and is close to the choke line. 800whp is well off the map. Punching the numbers into a 68mm gen2 turbo map is bang on in the center. Here I was thinking going smaller would shift the power band down, but in reality it would just make it so much worst due to my rev limit. I would have never thought. 
    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
×
×
  • Create New...