Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Legal size for what?? As long as most of the tyre is cover by an arch of some sort then it can be as wide as you like!

not in NSW without and engineers report.

legally ypu can go 1 inch wider and 1 taller then the largest option in the placard.

so, non vspec, will be 17x9

vspec should be 18x10 (I think, cant recall width of bbs)

still has to be within guards, not foul aywhere on body or chassis, and not increase track by more then 1inch.

Are you planning on running staggered sizes? Because you'll have a bad time.

I run 18x10 +20 with 265/35/18. Guards have to be lipped and run some negative camber.

Would 18x10 +25 or +30 make things a little easier?

Not sure, I haven't measured the gap between wheel and struts. But it looks like there isn't much room left. +25 *might* hit the struts depending on what you're running.

Perhaps run a 9.5 +22? You can still slap 265/35/18 on them and it'll fit. Note that tyre design plays a part in fitment as well. The old Potenza tyres that came with the wheels had a more stretched design compared to the Falken FK452 on there at the moment. The Bridgestones fitted without rolling the guards, but the Falkens rubbed (bought a guard roller + heat gun and rolled the guards).

vspec should be 18x10 (I think, cant recall width of bbs)

I'm pretty sure R32 V-Spec BBS are 17x8 +30
  • 9 months later...

Would 18x10 +25 or +30 make things a little easier?

i am at this point where i also want to know if running +25 or +30 will avoid having to roll guards?

anyone out there running this offset?

I ended up getting 10.5 +25, trial fit of the wheels without tyres was fine. I now have 265/35s fitted but haven't had time to try them yet. I'm concerned about how the curve of the front upright comes in (toward where the tyre will be) where it mounts onto the upper arm. Might get tight there. I have already rolled my rear guards - i needed that for 255s on +20s on tyres with a generous treadwidth (IIRC the Falken RT-615 scrubbed but whatever was on there before didnt).

Well with my 19x9.5+25 i have sfa between the front upper arm and tyre. Im running stretched 245s pirelli p zeros.

Adam, your wheels have 13mm less clearance than my above setup but running 18s should help with smaller rolling diameter...hmmm

I ended up getting 10.5 +25, trial fit of the wheels without tyres was fine. I now have 265/35s fitted but haven't had time to try them yet. I'm concerned about how the curve of the front upright comes in (toward where the tyre will be) where it mounts onto the upper arm. Might get tight there. I have already rolled my rear guards - i needed that for 255s on +20s on tyres with a generous treadwidth (IIRC the Falken RT-615 scrubbed but whatever was on there before didnt).

did u end up fitting your tyres yet?

I've trial fitted a front +25 wheel with a 265 and there's ~9mm clearance to the curved upright. so that looks fine. I haven't tried a rear or driven it yet - need to fix an oil leak first...

My thinking was that since 255s on a +30 rim worked, 265s on a +25 would have the same clearance to the upright. Of course i then found that the Dunlop 265s were about 20mm wider at the tread than the Toyo 255s...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...