Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

My pride and joy was stolen from Glen Waverley sometime today. It's a white R33 GTS-T S2, Rego XKB431. Black FMIC, Canon exhaust and dark gold/brown 18" wheels. Small SAU sticker on the rear window and also on the rear passenger side.

If you see it can you please call the police @ Glen Waverley on 9566 1555.

Thanks for any help.

R33_zps55347eb4.jpg

Edited by White_33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434997-stolen-white-r33-gts-t-rego-xkb431/
Share on other sites

Absolutely mate, alarm and immobiliser. Parked out in the open @ the train station, hoping someone saw something...... :(

Check station cameras, but yeah, parking any semi-decent car at the station is asking for it unfortunately.

soo many getting stolen.....

there are some ways of stopping stolen cars being driven away with aftermarket ECU's i wont disclose details of such on a public viewed forum.

Unfortunately that wouldn't of helped me, I've been running stock ecu and actuator for a while now but would be interested in the info anyway if you'd pm me?

Check station cameras, but yeah, parking any semi-decent car at the station is asking for it unfortunately.

Dude I need the car to get to and from work. With that mentality, if I decide to drive to work in the CBD and have an accident, then I'd be asking for it to as I'm driving the car in a busy area? Or if I park that car at the shops and it gets stolen am I still asking for it? I need the practicality of a motor vehicle, not to keep in the garage and admire it. Don't mean to come off aggressive mate, I'm just extremely fkd off at the moment. :(

Any real pro won't break in the drive it away anyway... They come and carefully put it on the back of a flatbed, covering it up and take it elsewhere to disable the immobiliser etc.

Unfortunately that wouldn't of helped me, I've been running stock ecu and actuator for a while now but would be interested in the info anyway if you'd pm me?

Dude I need the car to get to and from work. With that mentality, if I decide to drive to work in the CBD and have an accident, then I'd be asking for it to as I'm driving the car in a busy area? Or if I park that car at the shops and it gets stolen am I still asking for it? I need the practicality of a motor vehicle, not to keep in the garage and admire it. Don't mean to come off aggressive mate, I'm just extremely fkd off at the moment. :(

Have a look on the Stolen Imports Australia page on facebook, the amount that get taken from stations is crazy. A train station is also the easiest to target by thief's because they know the owner won't be around at all between 9-5. Free pickings. And nah I had my VL stolen and even though it was a shit-box I was raging, so I know how you'd feel.

If you haven't yet, I'd recommend posting your car on here: https://www.facebook.com/stolenimportsaustralia?ref=br_tf

I have tilt sensors installed, alarm will go off if it's lifted at all.

Even when I let down a tyre while the alarm is on it will go off, so that would help, also causing the immobiliser to kick in.

So even if it's being taken by a flatbed, it's not going to be quiet at all.

But sadly doesn't seem like there is much when they use flatbeds :/

Disabling the car is easy but completely stopping theft - dunno

Some have invested in Alarm/Immobiliser + wheel clamp/s + buddy clubs + GPS tracking + hidden kill switch etc... which is good to deter most all. ( but the serious professionals !)

Alarm/Immobiliser go off with motion so I'm not certain how they get away with flat bed trucks ?

you could have your vehicle micro dotted as well

IED may be over the top but if you could still insure your vehicle ......... :w00t:

They would only try the once !

Even a single shotgun shell in the horn button comes to my mind. Would hate to forget to disable the sprung pin tho :huh:

Fark, that's really sad and depressing to see the amount of imports that get stolen. What can you possibly do to keep your car safe when as Odium said they put it on a flatbed and take it away?

Alarm, and immobiliser (properly installed) will stop most street scum from taking the car. As far as flat beds go, I often leave the steering wheel turned one revolution left or right, so if they want to tow it, they'll have to smash a window first anyway to get it up there (which will do the alarm).

Yep, mine pretty much can't be stolen from work... it's in sight of a dozen people all the time... so if its getting flatbedded, I'm going to be told about it before they've jumped out of the cabin...

Also at home it parks outside, but on the lawn without direct flatbed access... and with the wheel turned (so I can get it up onto the lawn), and i live in a street without through traffic so less chance of it being spotted as a target, plus I've got a nosey neighbour who lives across the road and is always in her front yard feeding birds, washing gorillas, painting penguins, polishing windows and all sorts of other weird shit.

Yep, mine pretty much can't be stolen from work... it's in sight of a dozen people all the time... so if its getting flatbedded, I'm going to be told about it before they've jumped out of the cabin...

Also at home it parks outside, but on the lawn without direct flatbed access... and with the wheel turned (so I can get it up onto the lawn), and i live in a street without through traffic so less chance of it being spotted as a target, plus I've got a nosey neighbour who lives across the road and is always in her front yard feeding birds, washing gorillas, painting penguins, polishing windows and all sorts of other weird shit.

Hey Simon why don't you tell me a little bit more about what I should look out for when I go to steal your car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...