Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

My pride and joy was stolen from Glen Waverley sometime today. It's a white R33 GTS-T S2, Rego XKB431. Black FMIC, Canon exhaust and dark gold/brown 18" wheels. Small SAU sticker on the rear window and also on the rear passenger side.

If you see it can you please call the police @ Glen Waverley on 9566 1555.

Thanks for any help.

R33_zps55347eb4.jpg

Edited by White_33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434997-stolen-white-r33-gts-t-rego-xkb431/
Share on other sites

Absolutely mate, alarm and immobiliser. Parked out in the open @ the train station, hoping someone saw something...... :(

Check station cameras, but yeah, parking any semi-decent car at the station is asking for it unfortunately.

soo many getting stolen.....

there are some ways of stopping stolen cars being driven away with aftermarket ECU's i wont disclose details of such on a public viewed forum.

Unfortunately that wouldn't of helped me, I've been running stock ecu and actuator for a while now but would be interested in the info anyway if you'd pm me?

Check station cameras, but yeah, parking any semi-decent car at the station is asking for it unfortunately.

Dude I need the car to get to and from work. With that mentality, if I decide to drive to work in the CBD and have an accident, then I'd be asking for it to as I'm driving the car in a busy area? Or if I park that car at the shops and it gets stolen am I still asking for it? I need the practicality of a motor vehicle, not to keep in the garage and admire it. Don't mean to come off aggressive mate, I'm just extremely fkd off at the moment. :(

Any real pro won't break in the drive it away anyway... They come and carefully put it on the back of a flatbed, covering it up and take it elsewhere to disable the immobiliser etc.

Unfortunately that wouldn't of helped me, I've been running stock ecu and actuator for a while now but would be interested in the info anyway if you'd pm me?

Dude I need the car to get to and from work. With that mentality, if I decide to drive to work in the CBD and have an accident, then I'd be asking for it to as I'm driving the car in a busy area? Or if I park that car at the shops and it gets stolen am I still asking for it? I need the practicality of a motor vehicle, not to keep in the garage and admire it. Don't mean to come off aggressive mate, I'm just extremely fkd off at the moment. :(

Have a look on the Stolen Imports Australia page on facebook, the amount that get taken from stations is crazy. A train station is also the easiest to target by thief's because they know the owner won't be around at all between 9-5. Free pickings. And nah I had my VL stolen and even though it was a shit-box I was raging, so I know how you'd feel.

If you haven't yet, I'd recommend posting your car on here: https://www.facebook.com/stolenimportsaustralia?ref=br_tf

I have tilt sensors installed, alarm will go off if it's lifted at all.

Even when I let down a tyre while the alarm is on it will go off, so that would help, also causing the immobiliser to kick in.

So even if it's being taken by a flatbed, it's not going to be quiet at all.

But sadly doesn't seem like there is much when they use flatbeds :/

Disabling the car is easy but completely stopping theft - dunno

Some have invested in Alarm/Immobiliser + wheel clamp/s + buddy clubs + GPS tracking + hidden kill switch etc... which is good to deter most all. ( but the serious professionals !)

Alarm/Immobiliser go off with motion so I'm not certain how they get away with flat bed trucks ?

you could have your vehicle micro dotted as well

IED may be over the top but if you could still insure your vehicle ......... :w00t:

They would only try the once !

Even a single shotgun shell in the horn button comes to my mind. Would hate to forget to disable the sprung pin tho :huh:

Fark, that's really sad and depressing to see the amount of imports that get stolen. What can you possibly do to keep your car safe when as Odium said they put it on a flatbed and take it away?

Alarm, and immobiliser (properly installed) will stop most street scum from taking the car. As far as flat beds go, I often leave the steering wheel turned one revolution left or right, so if they want to tow it, they'll have to smash a window first anyway to get it up there (which will do the alarm).

Yep, mine pretty much can't be stolen from work... it's in sight of a dozen people all the time... so if its getting flatbedded, I'm going to be told about it before they've jumped out of the cabin...

Also at home it parks outside, but on the lawn without direct flatbed access... and with the wheel turned (so I can get it up onto the lawn), and i live in a street without through traffic so less chance of it being spotted as a target, plus I've got a nosey neighbour who lives across the road and is always in her front yard feeding birds, washing gorillas, painting penguins, polishing windows and all sorts of other weird shit.

Yep, mine pretty much can't be stolen from work... it's in sight of a dozen people all the time... so if its getting flatbedded, I'm going to be told about it before they've jumped out of the cabin...

Also at home it parks outside, but on the lawn without direct flatbed access... and with the wheel turned (so I can get it up onto the lawn), and i live in a street without through traffic so less chance of it being spotted as a target, plus I've got a nosey neighbour who lives across the road and is always in her front yard feeding birds, washing gorillas, painting penguins, polishing windows and all sorts of other weird shit.

Hey Simon why don't you tell me a little bit more about what I should look out for when I go to steal your car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...