Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you plan to use VQ30 manifolds, you will need to stick the turbo down in the stock position, under the left bank. Not sure a $400 Holset will be up to the task, or even fit. The manifold adapter/T3 flange will be the main issue, unless you simply highflow a stock VQ25det or VQ30det turbo. Expect a lot of swearing.

I know you can tune the stock ECU... The people that do it are called "Uprev", which is being used by a lot of people to tune with.

I thought 9k would have been standard for any plus T. I've over estimated on somethings and I'm not concerned if it goes over.

I was asking more about MAF or are you going to run less than 5psi? I believe that is when the stock MAF maxes out.

I have heard of Uprev, however i have never heard the term used outside of the US until now. Im sure with 9k you would have a powerful & reliable setup.

Im not looking at spending that type of money as i would do an RB26dett swap for that money as in NZ a RB26dett and box costs around 6k...

Nope, i haven't had any reason to believe that the MAF would max out at 8/9 psi? The US F/I bolt on kits don't require a MAF change so i had presumed (never good) that the MAF was the same, therefore no issue?

If you plan to use VQ30 manifolds, you will need to stick the turbo down in the stock position, under the left bank. Not sure a $400 Holset will be up to the task, or even fit. The manifold adapter/T3 flange will be the main issue, unless you simply highflow a stock VQ25det or VQ30det turbo. Expect a lot of swearing.

Cheers for the advice again Scotty. Why is that if you don't mind me asking? No way of cutting/welding the manifold to suit having the turbo further foward like the setup posted prior?

Yeah, i wouldnt imagine the Holset would fit down in the stock position. I will look into the cost/what is involved of high-flowing a stock turbo and see if it is worth it.

I also have this turbo in my watchlist.

FPT Gt3076 Turbo (NZ company)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/auction-688041090.htm

Thanks mate. Much appreciated.

Edited by andy_cliff

Don't buy that turbo, or any second hand turbo for that matter. If you are tight arseing on the the turbo you had better stop what you are planning now, as it will easily cost twice what you are thinking anyway, and the turbo selection is the most critical part.

RB swap. lol. You have a better base for power in your car at the moment, without modifying your car completely. Best engine to swap in would be the VQ25det (or VQ30det), or simply build your engine if you plan more than 250kw.

Cutting and welding cast manifolds will end in tears, perhaps a custom steampipe set of manifolds would be better? But your budget doesn't allow for that...

Don't buy that turbo, or any second hand turbo for that matter. If you are tight arseing on the the turbo you had better stop what you are planning now, as it will easily cost twice what you are thinking anyway, and the turbo selection is the most critical part.

RB swap. lol. You have a better base for power in your car at the moment, without modifying your car completely. Best engine to swap in would be the VQ25det (or VQ30det), or simply build your engine if you plan more than 250kw.

Cutting and welding cast manifolds will end in tears, perhaps a custom steampipe set of manifolds would be better? But your budget doesn't allow for that...

Not a problem. I was simply seeing if there were any cheaper reconditioned turbos worth using. Stupid idea really. Alright ill make sure i keep a pretty penny aside for the turbo.

Hey, whats wrong with the RB26? I know the 20 series is laughable but the 26 is a great engine :) Granted the VQ is a much better option to get easy power from.

Speaking of a VQ30 swap i remember reading an article from NZPC magazine that had a 350z that did just that.

Good man, that is what i was wanting to know. Thanks! Yeah, I was looking at getting Sinco involved with a custom manifold but like you stated, the budget wont allow.

Nothing wrong with the late model RB20! Bullet proof and you can stick heaps of boost on it and rev the nuts off it, and it will love every minute of it. Just needed more capacity for heavier cars!

If you have limited budget, the easiest swap would be the VQ25DET, with factory ECU, and turbo. When you save a little more, high flow the turbo, dump pipe, inlet duct, fuel pump, injectors etc. etc. and run an aftermarket ECU or piggy back. If you can do most of the engine transplant work yourself, then the main costs are the engine half cut. Not sure if you need it to be engineered where ever you are, but you can argue the engine runs in a similar car of similar power with similar emissions, and the certificate would be fairly straight forward.

Other option would be to wait for a second hand greddy/power enterprise/HKS or similar turbo kit to come up. Sometimes they do appear for reasonably good prices, but go pretty quickly!

Expect prices to be around $6K though... depending on the kit.

Otherwise, save your pennies and do it properly with an APS kit for the 350Z....

After plenty of thinking and dwelling on the advice from Scotty and others about the constraints of cast iron manifolds i have decided to take a different path for the build.

This build is no longer going to be completed in the near future. The reason being is i am going to be spending more money.

I found out more info on the HKS Single Turbo setup in the past couple of days and i plan to base my kit around theirs.

PS: Please let me know if the photo use is offensive to the owners as i have not asked for permission to use them.

From what i can see from the kit it seems that this would be the best path to go down with some slight changes.

HKS Single Turbo Kit - 350z/G35 (approx 270rwkw)

5427dbef-70e8-4a49-9180-a8293f056ed4_zps

d2398a9a-42de-468b-a2fb-becfe6fa9467_zps

178aee96-729d-4665-8f25-40fbfacb1e5d_zps

192a6811-267a-47f5-8898-5ed42e9e9021_zps

4f578cb2-cafa-4cfb-9794-f755efb51828_zps

The last thing i want to do is have to do this twice so im going to be spending some more money on the turbo and wastegate.

I will be keeping an eye out for a HKS 3037 or similar for the turbo. Seeing as they work well with the numbers im chasing, it is a win win.

With this setup from what i can see i will be able to use the stock manifolds as they seem to be essentially the same as the HKS ones?

HKS just used Nissans VQ manifolds? If so. Thats awesome :)

Yes, they are VQ25det manifolds, I have a set here if you need them.

Understand that HKS used a T2 version of the 3037 with a very restrictive cast adapter, it was the only let down of the kit as I saw it.

Yes, they are VQ25det manifolds, I have a set here if you need them.

Understand that HKS used a T2 version of the 3037 with a very restrictive cast adapter, it was the only let down of the kit as I saw it.

He strikes again :worship:

So what is the difference exactly between the VQ25det/VQ30det manifolds exactly? Seeing as you provide more knowledge than a google search.

Interesting. That is good to know, I will keep that in mind.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...