Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I'm fairly new to these forums (Actually very new this is my first post)

I'm currently looking at getting either an R32 gtst or gts4, preferably the latter.

I'm located Gold Coast / Brisbane area

I have up for Swaps my 99 Subaru Forester SF5 advertised for 13k nego or swaps

It has very recently been converted to a V3 STI with a GC8 halfcut from japland.

I've owned the car for alittle over 18 months and all the work has been done over the last 3.

This car has been my pride and joy and it is a very regretful sale.

The reason for sale is I am still currently on my P's and having a car with a mod-plate does not qualify for a "moderately powered vehicle" exemption, i.e a mod plate makes it "high powered" regardless of its actual power. The motor produces 201kw from factory and only has 62xxx kms on it.

The list of mods includes the following.

- V3 STI Motor (63xxx kms)
- V3 STI 5 speed gearbox (63xxx kms)
- V3 STI Injectors (63xxx kms)
- Kartboy Short Throw Shifter
- Custom Air Box
- Custom Radiator Shroud
- Brand new FMIC
- Brand new Walbro High Flow fuel pump
- Upper Strut bracing
- Fully Adjustable Kido Coilovers
- Camber bolts front/rear
- WRX 4-pot Callipers
- STI Front Sway Bar 22mm
- STI Rear Sway Bar 22mm
- STI 4.44 Rear Diff
- Removed body spacers

- STI V7 Seats
- Black GT Rear Seats
- Black WRX Carpet
- Black Interior Plastics
- Suede Dashboard
- Suede STI Doors
- Carbon Fiber Dash Accents
- Carbon Fibre Pedals
- MOMO 4" Deep Dish Wheel
- 2x Pioneer 12" Subs
- 870w Amp

- Rear Hatch Badge Delete
- Fender Flare Delete
- Pumped Rear Guards
- 17x9 +25 Steelies (215/45/17 Rubber)
- Front Lip
- GT Grill
- Eyelids/Headlight Portectors
- Xieon 4300k Globes
- Subaru Slim-Line Roof Racks

As stated above I'm looking for swaps for something UNDER the stock power/weight ratio of 125kw/tonne, So an R32 RB20det gtst or gts4 would be suitable.

Contact Name: Justin
Contact Phone: 0411507385
(Or post below)

6vsk.jpg

1lmo.jpg
5f5z.jpg
vgxo.jpg
66wl.jpg
Edited by JustinFormosa

Have you advertised your Foz in OzFoz too Justin?

That's where I sold my MY06XT.

And welcome to SAU :)

Are you from Taiwan (where my wife comes from)?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...