JustinFormosa

PM'd

> See someone that wants solution to get around a problem > Thinks solution is to get rid of problem all together You must be a great problem solver.

Thanks for the response, I have a pair of Gtr guards along with the indicators to go on, I think I might do that before touching anything else. Inner guard lining was removed long ago and loom has been tucked up higher out of the way. Then hopefully with the extra outside clearance I wont have to run such aggressive camber, I also need to run more caster rather than less as the wheel has heaps of room at the front but very minimal at the rear. As far as the ADR's go I was unaware it was the whole wheel, I've always gone off the assumption that the top of the rim had to sit underneath the guard. I understand this isn't everyones cup of tea and thats fine, but I feel like if you don't have something constructive to say then why say anything? Thats the only thing that arcs me up.

I don't want to have to run -5 or anywhere close to that, old mate bcozican apparently runs -4 without issues and thats good for him. Running hellaflushstancenationjdmsocietyfanboy camber is not my goal, I simply want to know if the current outcome of what I'm doing (i.e using front upper arms to pull the camber in whilst running debatably stupidly large wheels) seems typical? (number 1 and 2 in the OP) And possibly what will correct such issues other than "buy new wheels" or "just hardpark everywhere"

The guy I bought them off was running them on a 32 as well, he was running 20mm Extended LCA's along with adjustable front camber arms and gtr guards and he said he didn't have any Issues, so yes I have. And just because people don't like what I'm trying to achieve with my car doesn't mean you gotta get sassy As bcozican mentioned he runs a 10" +15 so an 11" +20 is only going to 7-8mm more inset. Do you run standard upper arms? I'd say by pulling the camber out and running adjustable caster arms to square everything up again should solve the issue?

I have a set of GTR guards I'm yet to fit, so should be able to pull the camber out a little but this doesn't resolve the issue of rim rubbing on the upper wishbone.

Ok ty for help m8 will consider.

Thanks but that doesn't quite solve my problem.

Hey Guys, So I've searched the forums for similar issues and haven't been able to find much information. I'm currently trying to fit a set of 18x11 +20 Concave Concepts to my Gts-t and have purchased and installed a set of Front Upper Camber Arms to try and pull them in a little as they poke on my Gts-t guards quite a bit as pictured. Although since doing so have run into a few problems. 1. After adjusting the camber it looks as though the wheel sits further back inside the arch towards the back of the car and is now rubbing quite heavily against the guard/sideskirt mount when turning. (I'm thinking caster arms will fix this as I assume the caster is all out of whack) 2. After adjusting the camber the inside of the wheel looks like its sitting over the coilover (above the lock collar for the base and below the lock collar for the spring) and over hard bumps the coilover compresses and hits against the inside of the rim. 3. At full lock, or close to, the inside of the rim rubs up against the upper wishbone and makes a horrid grinding noise (I have since notched out the wishbone but apparently not enough because it still does it) I tried fitting a set of 7mm slip on spacers to fix the issue but they pull the wheels out a little too far and create all kinda of rubbing issues on the guards. Has anybody had any similar issues, or have any constructive suggestions/can help at all? Thanks.

Sorry for bumping an old post but would somebody be able to tell me where to source the bonnet spoiler? Would ask OP but hasn't been active since 2k13

This is great, Loving the work you're doing keep it up

I've been having a few issues with my car recently in the way thats it seems sluggish and hesitant through the rev range specifically between 2-4k I recently adjusted my AAC valve before reading this without first unplugging the brown plug (rb20det) could this be a cause to the issue, maybe I adjust it too far or something? Ideas?

I love this build keep it up and keep us updated! top notch bro. my 32 has begun to seem a little sluggish and backfires a lot more than it used to. nothing seems to indicate fuel pump but I guess its worth a check

Little thread revival to ask a quick question, didn't want to make a whole other topic, what is the best way to remove dried polish from things, glass/paint ect. I wasn't real careful when I begun buffing and there's white dots of polish that are really hard to get off just about everywhere ahah.

Cars looking boss! Good to see something different (the N/A rb25 you're building) Keep us updated