Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20Det Advice/mods/rebuild

QVRTHS

By QVRTHS,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

QVRTHS Explorer

QVRTHS

Posted
Posted

Hi Team

No doubt this has been extensively covered previously, and I've had a look on other forums, however info seems to be conflicting as to what to do, how to do it etc.

I have just bought an R32 GTS-t.

Its done 130KM, and looks like the engine has never been removed before.

Im looking at pulling the engine out to do a full clean up (Engine and engine bay are quite dirty) so was looking to get some advice regarding this.

Firstly, is it easier to remove the engine with the gearbox attached or not? - I have done a couple of conversions previously, but I always went out the bottom as everything was being swapped over anyway. - I'm going to buy an engine hoist and stand so I can work on the engine, so I'm assuming leave the gearbox in the car? If someone can advise best way to go about it, would be great.

Secondly, the engine has done 130KM, and the cambelt was last done at 80KM in Japan, the engine seems to be running very well, so am on the fence about whether to rebuild it or not, seeing as I don't actually know the history of the engine. - Should I go ahead with a rebuild, and how far should I go?

Thirdly, I'm wondering if anyone can share their experiences with some basic mods I can do, with maximum bang for buck.. The car currently has a 3" cat back exhaust, weird FMIC (think its been put on in Japan, not very big) and an Apexi AVCR.

I know the main thing is to get a 3" dump and hi flow cat, but what else can I do to get some decent power, at minimum cost?

Also, thinking about an rb25 turbo, however is it truly bolt on swappable, or is there some modification to the water lines i need to do?

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435264-rb20det-advicemodsrebuild/
Share on other sites
StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

If it aint broke- dont fix it

Spend your money on changing fluids, cleaning/swap out any leaking gaskets /upgrade your exhaust to 76 mm / tune /25 turbo/service and your done

QVRTHS Explorer

QVRTHS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Team, thanks for your advice! - Jiffo sent me a novel on what to do so thanks Jiffo for taking the time, -

I have given a complete service (Oil, Fuel Filter, Oil Filter, Coolant Flush) and its running smooth, - I bought a few litres of degreaser and soaked the bay in it, hosed it off, and it came up a treat.

It does seem to have a coil pack issue, But as Jiffo advised, will start with a set of plugs and cleaning the coil packs.

Now on to the latest news - Funnily enough even though I just purchased this car, I have now also just purchased a 1996 Stagea with an Auto RB25DET (88000KM), and am looking at dropping the 25 into the GTS-t, and putting the 20DET into the stagea. Thoughts?

I know it sounds retarded putting an RB20DET into a Stagea, but the Stagea requires some body work before it can go back on the road, so it may not even get the 20DET, it may just be parted out (New thread in Stagea parts available possible later)

I've had a long search in regards to putting an Stagea AWD RB25DET into an R32, however most of the threads about GTS-4's, However I have seen that the sump needs to be modified? - I can't seem to find any details on this, does anyone know anyone that knows what they're doing when it comes to this? (Pics, Tutorials?) - Or alternatively, someone around Brisbane that can do it for me?

Apart from the sump, what else needs to be changed/modified? - Can i use the R32 engine ECU Harness on the 25DET (saves messing around with dash plugs)

Thanks Team

QVRTHS Explorer

QVRTHS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

dont do it unless you want to seriously devalue the stagea, it may not even be registerable afterwards as you are putting an older motor into a newer car

Fair enough, I bought the Stagea for $1K. So will prob end up cleaning it up a bit, chucking some rego on it and selling it... Then with that coin go buy an r34 rb25, saves time messing around with the sump etc.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • Kapr
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By Kapr · Posted

      @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...