Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys looking to get into my first gtr coming from SR20det silvia's all my life. Looking at a R33 GTR series 3 v spec car in question

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1997/SSE-AD-2464495/?Cr=1&sdmvc=1

went to have a look it seemed ok needs a little work but its refelcted in the slight negotiation. I need a guru to have another thorough look incase i missed something major.

I'm happy to pay you for your time to go down and check it out for me.

text or pm me 0406868688

Car is located in Adelaide brighton Area

Those Kms on that GTR don't really compliment the condition of that interior lol, looks like someones been eating the steering wheel.

yeah the wheel is DEf gone and will need to be replaced.....down the oil cap also looks abit sludgey

It's possibly a big issue.

Age, neglect, hard use, a bit of all 3...

Take it down to Willall, and have them give it the once over. If the owner refuses, walk away.

doesn't look too bad, definitely needs a few experienced eyes over it, does need some lovn, but least it looks dirty and exactly how it is not all sparkly and clean then its suss as

I don't mind having a look over it, but just had a bubs so if you were looking at buying it soon you would have to bring it to me at Mawson Lakes

mike

Really you need to get underneath this to investigate further. If i were you take a very close look at the vehicle yourself. End of the day you'll be the one maintaining it and only you can decide :)

When i was looking at buying my first GTR i had a look at a couple. The first was immaculate on the outside, as soon as i get beneath them things were alittle different. The owner was fairly hesitant to allow me to drive it onto a ramp which i found suspicious at the time. There was less then 100,000 on the Odo and that was clearly incorrect based off the under side of the vehicle. Keeping in mind you cant expect perfection these days. However oil/coolant leaks will only be visible from beneath the vehicle.

Most owners will go to the effort of cleaning an engine bay/exterior prior to sale but mostly neglect anything that's not visible. Specially beneath the vehicle.

However looks tidy on the out side, just take your time and pick the right one. hopefully its a great example :) Good luck!

Biggest thing to check is for rust on the underbody as if that's there like my mates, you won't past a roadworthy if its dodgy bodywork bog to cover it up and could cost thousands to fix.

As stated the underneath is where you'll see the biggest issues, oil leaks from sump or diff housings.

Check dipstick and see how old the oil looks if its serviced regularly, ask if timing belt, water pumps have been changed, seals around the head for oil leaks.

That's definately the worst steering wheel I've seen given its only 100,000kms, mines got 170,000kms now since I purchased it last year with around 130,000kms and still decent condition.

Mentioned cars been boosted, to what psi and who tuned it? Aftermarket ECU or just boost controller?

yeah the steering hweel and gear boot shagged...no ebc only boost restrictor removed.....having a guy doing a full vehicle inspection tonight doing a compression leak test....owner did say 100k service not done called JMS quoted around $2k for full 100k service which i will factor into negotiating price but wanted to do the gaskets turbo gasket etc which prob be another couple g's so it is slowly adding up

Do the 100k Service yourself :) That'll save you $1500 out of that 2k you've been quoted. I'm sure there are many on this board that would be more then happy to lend a hand. I'dd offer but i cant claim to be an expert.

I used to get all of my work done by a local mechanic... before buying a GTR. That changed pretty quickly. You'll quickly become accustomed to GTR Tax :) Unless you have deep pockets!

Do the 100k Service yourself :) That'll save you $1500 out of that 2k you've been quoted. I'm sure there are many on this board that would be more then happy to lend a hand. I'dd offer but i cant claim to be an expert.

I used to get all of my work done by a local mechanic... before buying a GTR. That changed pretty quickly. You'll quickly become accustomed to GTR Tax :) Unless you have deep pockets!

lol your soo right ...i have wroekd on sr20's all my life and when i look at a rb26 im a lost fool lol and because i classy myself as a backyard mechanic and unlike sr if i stuff it up cheap as piss to fix or replace but rb26 is a total new ball game .....

thanks guys had a guy look at it and turned out to be a POS , low compression on 2 cylinders , been in a accident , brakes gone, weird noise at 9000 rpm's...i will be offering like $8k

Weird noise at above or on rev limit!

thanks guys had a guy look at it and turned out to be a POS , low compression on 2 cylinders , been in a accident , brakes gone, weird noise at 9000 rpm's...i will be offering like $8k

Did you have "Adelaide vehicle inspections" do it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...