Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, ive just put a nismo dash in my 33, everything was working well, after having it in my car for a few days the tacho started to play up intermittentely.

It stays at 11 grand and occasionally reads correct.

Does anyone have any experience with these dashes? know if this is a common problem or a easy fix?

Or know anyware that may be able to fix it?

cheers sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435601-r33-gsts-with-nismo-dash/
Share on other sites

Good with Electronics?

Going to have to pull it back out and apart. You need to get the printed circuit board separate from to Motor for the RPM needle as there are some messy solders on it. There are 4 solder points to pull the board off to motor and RPM needle. When you have done that your going to have to work on the micro chip as they didn't manufacture it well (micro chip is soldered on with about 20 or more pins), the solder would have become hard and it starting to crack at the printed circuit board from age. Need to take it off the board, scrape (very carefully) off the old solder resist stuff (which is a green coating) and then old solder so you can resolder the micro chip back onto the printed circuit board.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...