Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Had my Aircon regassed and all was fine (thought it was too easy for a Gtr) anyway got home and heard a hissing sound and thought it was coolant boiling in turbos . Fast forward 2 weeks went for a drive and air con clutch won't engage. Went back to carbon to look for leaks which we couldn't find so I changed the compressor o rings . We started to add some gas and I heard the hissing again. Dave said to take it home and add air from compressor to find leak which I did. Anyway after about 45 minutes I found the leak was from rear of compressor where the wire comes out there is a brass screw with a tiny hole in it. I checked in my spare compressor and it's the same. Under the screw there is a spring and a seat, anyone know what this is? Clearly it shouldn't leak normally but it must be there for a reason. Can't find it on google, I'm thinking if pulling the rear plate off the old one to see what it is but my feeling is it's an over pressure valve or and bleed hole if something fails? On vw's with zexel compressors they change some sought of valve as part if conversion to 134a could this be needed on Gtr?

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435744-air-con-leak/
Share on other sites

Totally off topic, but the Indian dude at the shop (where you initially parked) was me LOL. I was getting the air con regassed on my car (I didn't know Carbon did regassing). The compressor on my car doesn't engage, so have to find the electrical fault.

Maybe replace the compressor again? fatz has a couple lying around...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435744-air-con-leak/#findComment-7128155
Share on other sites

I was going to say hello but wasn't sure u were the owner . It seems its a over pressure valve , maybe we put too much gas in? I didn't give it a squirt to 7k when it started leaking , how much gas did they put in yours? Did they feed just high pressure or low on the firewall as well?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435744-air-con-leak/#findComment-7128205
Share on other sites

Yep it's an over pressure/temp discharge port but basically means pressure sensor wasn't working to disengage clutch , but also could be indicator of blockage or Thermo fan not working . I will change receiver drier this time too . This discharge thing should relesse some pressure then close which unfortunately it's not doing . They tell machine what to put in, r32 Gtr is 550gms as a good starting point with r12 problem is 134a has different expansion rates so who knows with that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435744-air-con-leak/#findComment-7130107
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...