Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Was speaking with McFly regarding wheel alignment as to what works and what doesn't. Having the wrong alignment can cause all sorts of mayhem as it won't respond how you want it to. Now, taking that into consideration, different settings are used for different uses. Drag Racing would have settings primarily focussed on going forward whereas track work would factor in turning effectiveness. What I wanted to do was create a knowledge base here of what has worked for you guys. This way, people looking to change settings can easily see what has worked and what hasn't. If this takes off, we can ask Scott to sticky this :)

I guess this template would be the best way to go:

Car:

Suspension Mods:

Wheel size (Width and Diameter):

Camber:

Caster:

Toe:

Benefits and application:

Lets see what you guys have!

Cheers,

Tony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435838-wheel-alignment-settings-what-works/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Was speaking with McFly regarding wheel alignment as to what works and what doesn't. Having the wrong alignment can cause all sorts of mayhem as it won't respond how you want it to. Now, taking that into consideration, different settings are used for different uses. Drag Racing would have settings primarily focussed on going forward whereas track work would factor in turning effectiveness. What I wanted to do was create a knowledge base here of what has worked for you guys. This way, people looking to change settings can easily see what has worked and what hasn't. If this takes off, we can ask Scott to sticky this :)

I guess this template would be the best way to go:

Car:

Suspension Mods:

Wheel size (Width and Diameter):

Camber:

Caster:

Toe:

Benefits and application:

Lets see what you guys have!

Cheers,

Tony

Car: R32 GTR

Suspension Mods: Crappy old Tein Coilovers, front and rear adjustable arms

Wheel size (Width and Diameter): 265 tyres 9.5 inch rims

Camber: +3 degrees front +1 rear

Caster: somewhere around 6 degrees

Toe: 0 at the front and about 1.5mm at the back

Benefits and application:

The benefits are reasonable handling while maintaining some form of tyre durability. Its sort of an all rounder setting, kind of ok for anything you throw at it.

  • Like 1

Car: R32 GTR

Suspension Mods: SK's package - Bilstien Shocks revalved, with 5 additional circlip marks, Eibach springs, Whiteline bushes, sway bars, Cusco upper control arms, tierods

Wheel size (Width and Diameter): 18 x 9.5 +12 (Tyres RSR's 255's)

Camber: Front LH -2.5 RH -2.5 - Rear LH -1.5 RH -1.5

Caster: LH +5.04. RH +4.15

Toe: Front LH +1.5 / RH +1.5 - Rear LH +2 RH +2

Setback: Front +00.02 - Rear +00.39

Track Difference: 00.08

Benefits and application:

I find light and responsive turning. Doesn't drift off towards the gutter. I use mainly Street (and some Track).

Would reduce camber if I wanted to reduce inner tyre wear.

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1

I have found toe to be the biggest killer of tyres, much more so than camber. Combine them and say goodbye to inner rubber.

also, ride height plays a large role in how your car behaves as it adjusts the angle of your lower arms and is a big contributer to bump steer

I have found toe to be the biggest killer of tyres, much more so than camber. Combine them and say goodbye to inner rubber.

also, ride height plays a large role in how your car behaves as it adjusts the angle of your lower arms and is a big contributer to bump steer

What were your settings? They seemed to play nicely.

I have found toe to be the biggest killer of tyres, much more so than camber. Combine them and say goodbye to inner rubber.

also, ride height plays a large role in how your car behaves as it adjusts the angle of your lower arms and is a big contributer to bump steer

This is mega truth. Lower it too much and you end up with wierd geometry and a roll centre through the road surface somewhere.

If you want to leave the keys with me, we can do it whilst your away. Pretty sure that Mike's coming up for the Golf day.

Not sure any more mate sorry, looks like I'll be road tripping into cockroach country early that morning :unsure:

  • 3 weeks later...

Car: R34 GT-T Coupe

Suspension Mods: BC Coilovers, Rear Adjustable Upper Control Arms & Traction Rods, 24mm/22mm Whiteline Swaybars

Wheel size (Width and Diameter): F: 18x8.5+30&235/40 R:18x9.5+30&265/35

Camber: F: -1.0deg R:-0.5deg

Caster: 7deg

Toe: 0mm all round

Benefits and application: Longevity and looks :D Handles really well too

Edited by fusion07

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...