Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys had a bit of a search but couldn't find my answer.

ive installed a plazmaman throttle body and plenum

I hooked a compressor up to my intake to pressure test the system whilst doing so found that it was leaking around my tps.

I removed it and sure enough there was a fair amount of air coming out from the end of the throttle shaft seal. it starts to leak at about 14psi and gets worse up to 22psi where I stopped as that's around where itll be getting tuned at.

just want to check if this is normal.

I called plazmaman and they told me that its completely normal and it wont be noticed also that I shouldn't have been doing this as its a static pressure 20psi and so on.

any input from experience would be much appreciated

It shouldn't do that. I can accept that no seal is perfect and that there might be a small leak, but if it is a lot of air, then that it wrong. Having said that, what you think is a lot of air and what I think is a lot of air are likely to be quite different.

In addition, kick the Plazmaman phone person in the snatch for being stupid. There is no difference between being put under 20psi internal pressure on a purely static basis and having the air flow past. Knobheads!

lol well it does seem like quite a bit of air to me but who knows, I guess when it goes in for a tune up ill see what unigroup think.. I didn't think there should be a difference with the static vs dynamic thing but didn't want to seem like a knob head arguing the point if I was wrong

haha I gave the fitting I used to hook up the compressor back to its owner.. on my hand it felt like the amount you would expect to come out of a 1 or 2mm id hose at that pressure.. not the most accurate guess but a worrying amount to me, even with the tps on you can feel it blowing out on your hands.. my hands are all that sensitive either, no cheek up against it needed

I would make sure there are zero leaks before taking it to them. In fact you want zero mechanical issues when you arrive there so they can smoke it and get on with tuning unhindered.

Time is money and it only ends up frustrating for both them and you.

I realize this wolverine but how am I to determine if this is an issue when the manufacturer is saying its normal and not to be worried about.. without getting a second opinion from someone who knows what there talking about such as yavus or mark at unigroup

it was alex I spoke to, he was quite helpful through the original purchase stages.

How would I have it proven to leak for them when they dissaprove of a static pressure test.. btw just to check before this goes further, the regulator on the compressor was showing quite a higher pressure but my assumption is that it was leaking out the valves as both my boost gauges in the car where what I took the readings off..

Yeah might do, I would prefer to have a definite that it's an issue first before complaining getting a new one and finding its the same.. i I called yavus he said it is normal and more common in aftermarket tb's as long as it's not excessive.. I have a feeling this may be excessive though

Yavus is going to tune so if he is happy with it then you should be sweet.

I have had cars back and forth from tuners over the years due to minor niggling issues and I was always lumped with the bill so I am a big fan of taking a week or so extra to get the car 100% mechanically right before tuning.

Yeah I would definitely like to have it 100% but I don't have any other way of having it tested, unless you have suggestions..

The car was being tuned and with a couple of other small faults, he said there was a loud hiss with high boost so I'm trying to find it, it was originally thought to bbe around the intake runners but with the compressor and some soapy water I think I've eliminated that, I found that I accidentally put the check valve in the wrong way for my carbon canister solenoid so I fixed that which was making noise with a bit of pressure from the compressor. I'm hoping that was it if not it must be this tb. I don't think I have another option other than back to the tuner

They already did smoke test it, couldn't find it as the smoke test only goes to 5psi and it doesn't pop it's head until beyond that, not sure if me testing it cold allowed it to not show itself I figured cold would be better as nothing would have expanded..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...