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Deleting Aac

d-ranged

By d-ranged,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

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Posted

Has anyone done this and took pics of what they did with the water pipes and boost pipes? Or is there a guide anywhere?

What did you do for the clutch master cylinder booster and the brake servo booster pipes?

What do you do with the water lines?

This is how my car is looking now, can i use the two circled lines for brake and clutch booster?

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e327/RaGeuk2k6/73252c41-9902-48ae-aed6-64cc2e3d6c88_zpsfe1a4f66.jpg

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d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

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First of all, what is wrong with the standard hoses for the booster? Secondly, why do you want to get rid of the AAC?

With the AAC gone they wont be there anymore and i want to clear some space under the plenum. I am fitting a single turbo and have a Link G4 so it will run without it, also i dont have A/C so the AAC is not needed.

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d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

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There must be someone that can tell me how to do this? You guys are way ahead of us in terms of messing about with these engines than we are in the UK!

I'm getting desperate now as just want to get the car back together and running.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

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d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

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Once again, a search of SAU finds the information required, instead of a new thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/319939-rb26-where-to-install-map-sensor-for-ecu-on-a-gtr/

Thanks mate, I did do a search but couldnt find what i was looking for, that is perfect for the booster lines, cheers :)

Just need to know about the water lines, just loop them i guess?

Also what can be done with the square black box? One pipe goes into the bottom of the plenum but what about the other side closest to the front of the car, the one in between the two circles in my pic.

Edited by d-ranged
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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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Water lines can just be looped together.

The "square black box", if it's what I think you're talking about, is your cold start valve. It provides your fast idle air when the car is cold. If you delete it, you just block off/remove/whatever you want with the air connections. It draws air from upstream the throttles and lets it in downstream the throttles - in the case of an RB26 this means into the balancing plenum.

If you remove it and the AAC, you had better have some decent way of gaining good idle control out of you new ECU. You know that you can't really get good idle control with an idle control valve of some sort, yeah?

Edited by GTSBoy
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d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

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Water lines can just be looped together.

The "square black box", if it's what I think you're talking about, is your cold start valve. It provides your fast idle air when the car is cold. If you delete it, you just block off/remove/whatever you want with the air connections. It draws air from upstream the throttles and lets it in downstream the throttles - in the case of an RB26 this means into the balancing plenum.

If you remove it and the AAC, you had better have some decent way of gaining good idle control out of you new ECU. You know that you can't really get good idle control with an idle control valve of some sort, yeah?

I was planning on keeping the cold start valve, just need to know where to plumb it in.

I just want to get rid of the AAC valve to clean some room as i wont need it anymore, it shouldnt cause any issues not having that right? I dont have A/C anymore and i thought not having it means you need a few more revs on cold start to keep it running?

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d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

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Cold start valve is easy. Air from upstream the throttles. Air to downstream the throttles. Plenum upstream, balance plenum downstream.

Could you explain that in lamen terms? Like, which pipe goes to where etc? I am literally a n00b when it comes to all this and am learning as I go. I was going to use the balance tubes for clutch and brake booster. Do i need to use one for the cold start?

Really appreciate the help mate

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ido09s Mentor

ido09s

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I know its not as cold in Oz as London but i have no issues with cold start with nothing under the plenum with a Link G4. We even run E85 and i dont need to use the accelerator pedal to get it started or keep it running. Drives fine from initial start as well

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d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

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I know its not as cold in Oz as London but i have no issues with cold start with nothing under the plenum with a Link G4. We even run E85 and i dont need to use the accelerator pedal to get it started or keep it running. Drives fine from initial start as well

So you have nothing at all? No AAC or Cold Start Valve?

Does your car idle OK? Did you have to do anything different with the Link settings?

Do you have any pics???

Edited by d-ranged
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  • 2 years later...
R32_nate Contributor

R32_nate

Posted
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I'm gonna bring this back from the dead. 

So I have a built RB26 with AAC deleted and running haltech. I left the cold start valve in place and plumbed up/down stream, but it would seem that I have zero control over the valve with the haltech. 

Has anyone had any experience with this? I'd like to still have a bit of cold start flexibility but don't care about the rest of the stuff the AAC does. 

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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The cold start valve is completely out of the control of the ECU.  Any ECU.  All it is is a powered heater and a wax pellet thermostat.  Open when cold, closed when warm.  So it lets extra idle air in to start with but closes up as the engine gets hot. Actually not as the engine gets hot, but as it gets hot itself from its own internal heater.  But supposed to be the same thing.

Proper idle speed control, with the emphasis on control, can only be achieved by having a controllable valve, or by forcing the issue with ignition timing.

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