Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those three year "national" warranties are only good for making the buyer feel warm and fuzzy at time of purchase. Once you start getting into the fine-print and the silly requirements and clauses, things go downhill from there pretty quickly

e.g. servicing requirements - any car over 10 years of age needs to be serviced every 3 months/5,000km, with proof sent within 7 days. Fine for a daily driven turbo car, silly for anything else (yeah some people may disagree, but overservicing is a waste of money, imo)

then there is the consequential damage clause. which in my mind goes something like this: you oil pump fails, and you pop the motor. they will fix the pump and you cough up for the motor, since its failed as a "consequence" of the oil pump blowing up. thus, many things end up in this grey area and you end up having to fight with them as just about any issue can be lumped into this "consequential" category

plus, repairs are only partially covered, and you pay an excess for the claims too. nice little scam in other words... had i known earlier, i would have had the warranty removed and made the price lower on my 35

Agreed the warranties are hardly even good for wiping your ass with. The 6 months dealer warranty will prove useful enough for me, the other warranty is a waste of time, but for the record it says service the car every 6 months or 10000kms which works out to be the amount of kilometres my missus does anyway.

I will read the fine print to see if it's even worthwhile following the servicing schedule though, I'm guessing it's going to be something stupid not unlike the "factory warranty" you get from a new car dealership.

I went out to the inspection guy they sent me to expecting some moron, but surprisingly the guy actually knew his shit and was quiet helpful. The car is very sound, I'm happy with it and the outcome. If I wasn't I would have returned the car and then probably had to pay more than I did for another one with the same kms, plus out of pockets, time lost, f**king around etc etc.

My V35 had a odo change but the cabin filter sticker gave it away. Changed at 35XXX in 07/05 and sold to me in 09/11 with 32XXX on the odo.

I didnt notice until i changed the cabin filter a 18 months later. I felt so ripped off and scammed. Plus im putting a new motor in so i just got over it.

It starts, it runs, it had no accident damage and was looked after. To me now atleast anyway thats all that matters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate, couldn't find in VIC, ended up ordering one from NSW, getting rwc to get new plates and registration done.
    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
×
×
  • Create New...