Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43555

I have said it many times before...do not even contemplate taking your GTR onto the track if it doesn't have a proper baffle in it. People in this thread have punched a hole in their blocks or spun bearings.

It is not a very expensive thing to do but will save your engine. If you want to do a track day in your GTR, please do up your sump first. Oil cooler is necessary, but will not stop your oil from surging.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43640-gtr-owners-read-this/
Share on other sites

Yes, The R won't be seeing any real action till it has new sump with baffles, large capacity oil pump, oil cooler, bigger radiator, oil restrictors, enlarged oil return galleries and catch-can. So by about the year 2010 I think I should be ready.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43555

It is not a very expensive thing to do but will save your engine.

Apparently the engine has to come out to take the sump off. Does anyone know what it is worth to fit baffles??

Yes, The R won't be seeing any real action till it has new sump with baffles, large capacity oil pump, oil cooler, bigger radiator, oil restrictors, enlarged oil return galleries and catch-can.   So by about the year 2010 I think I should be ready.

you forgotten exhaust, dump pipe. new turbos, big FMIC, 6 pots brakes, etc ,etc :D

To baffle your sump i think it costs around 200-300 done by the mechanic i use. You might find someone to do it for cheaper.

My Trust sump set up was cheap, but that's because I'm a dodgy Asian. I did not do the sump myself as I do not have an engine hoist nor do I have an angle grinder and a welder. Alternatively, you can buy a ready made JUN sump (not the parts to baffle the sump) for about 3 times what I paid for the Trust item.

I have said it many times, engine revs or how many laps are not important. How hard you turn is the important factor. QR has 3 right hand turns alone after the main straight, consider how much the oil would have moved to the left. Then think of the starved engine being revved to pull the car through turn 3 and bang you have a hole in your block.

So far, my mechanic has handed out accurate and invaluable advice to me, although it doesn't come cheap, although his advice regarding the sump was:

"Some people have gotten away without a sump for a couple of track days, but it's a $10k risk you are taking. If you're unlucky, your engine will blow by turn 2."

I don't know where people got the impression that GTRs are track ready from factory. They're far from it. They're a road going homologation of a race car, except the N1s or the special edition GTRs.

You have no idea how many times I thought I have prepared my car for the track only to be told this this this needs to be changed first. Not a cheap hobby nor car to choose for the track.

On a side note, Sydneykid has explained why the GTRs experience higher oil temps, i.e. 2 turbos and mainly because the front diff runs through the sump.

To baffle your sump i think it costs around 200-300 done by the mechanic i use.

Hey rb26dett, who is your mechanic? $200-300 sounds bloody cheap. I NEED to get mine done ASAP and am currently trying to get some pricing.

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...