Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree with the absence of information on the dashes.. If you purchased your Racepak products through Haltech, or you have a Haltech IQ3/Haltech ECU, you can call Haltech and get local support.

I just bought a Display Link - will give me access to all of the info accessed by my ecu allow logging and enable me to reduce the number of gauges needed. Only suits Link (or Vipec) though.

http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink

Work of art Sub boy32, fantastic setup, i think ill be doing the same with our setup.

Cheers!

It's beautiful! Where did you get the plate from?

Available from Racepak direct

The software is no different between the Display or Logger versions. In fact I would say that the display dashes are easier to update, set up and configure than the loggers as there's less parameters you need to deal with. It is a bit 'clunky' but once its up and running and you know your way around it, its easy to work with.

The Haltech IQ3's are manufactured for Haltech by Racepak and then are only programmed with a basic layout and packaged with a quick start guide by Haltech.

Love my Haltech Logger :) Anyone feeling lost with theirs I'm happy to help. I highly recommend you hook up the two buttons so you can easily scroll through the 4 available screens and view peak data!

EfGccrLl.jpg

The software maybe the same, but the updates for the Logger and the Display are different, the Display hasn't had a software upgrade in years, where as the Logger has.

Yeah, having the two buttons is great so you can program screens for different duties, i.e Street on one, track day on another etc. I used the two radio buttons on the top left of the dash for them and relabelled them.

Edited by Sub Boy32

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them.

Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

  • Like 1

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them.

Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

What was the problems you had with v22?

When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

What was the problems you had with v22?

When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

Odd communications problems when trying to program the dash.

It just adds 5 extra channels to display and/or log in the dash from the Haltech. The Odo function works fine. Make sure to tell the dash what channel it is using for speed so it can calculate distance for you.

That's odd, when I spoke to Racepak they told me that I wouldn't be able to get the Odo to work on the Display IQ3?

I'm using the speed output from the Link G4 through CAN Bus, but in the Odo menu on the Racepak Display software it's missing some of the links that the Logger software has.

What does the Haltech use for the speed input? Is it GPS?

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input.

Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ?

but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

Edited by cobrAA

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input.

Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ?

but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

I'm running an R33 speedo sensor in the gearbox, so I've done away with the mechanical cable.

I still think the dash is worth it, I've spent a lot on my engine, and being able to have read outs on all the important sensors is important, and programable warning lights if pressures etc get too low/hi

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

this.

just rwad the thread.

those with r32s, the speedo drive is mechanical, but the ecu should still have a vehicle speed in/output.

I believe its how they had the 180km/h limiter.

would it be possible to use this as the speed reference?

havnt dealt with the iq3 yet, but was looking towards one.

interesting reading, will keep an eye on this thread.

Yeah assuming cable is working on the 32 then the electronic input to ecu from dash is fine for reference

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

Yeah, I have an R33 speedo drive.

.....still can't work out how people get their Odo to work on the display version IQ3, the Racepak software is missing some of the sections.

Does the Haltech spec'ed one have it's own software?

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

id be leaving my cluster in, and mounting display in front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...