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Harmonic Balancer Removal, Stuck! Nee Help Asap

the-31

By the-31,
in General Automotive Discussion

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the-31 Apprentice

the-31

Posted
Posted

Need some help with Harmonic balancer removal.

After a race yesterday I realised the main bolt for the harmonic balancer was loose and the back of the balancer (plate with timing marks) had come away from the rest of the harmonic balancer (I assume the rubber has let go and I need a new balancer, this balancer is after market, can't remember the brand)

Normally is takes me 15mine to remove all belts and the harmonic balancer I've done it a few times in the past and it's 99.9% my fault the bolt was loose. But I've now spent over an hour and the balancer just won't pull off with the pulley puller, I thought maybe it was crooked so I tightened the main bolt back up and hoped to pull the pulley straight and tried to pull it off again but it's taking way too much pressure from the puller and something's going to break and it's not going to be the harmonic balancer.

So does any KNOW why it won't come off?

Cheers. Gotta get it sorted ASAP, it's a 30 bottom end

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

I'd say it has moved and wedged against the key way, remove motor and apply heat would be the best way, or carefully cut it off chances are the crank is damaged now anyway

I remember someone telling me they have a 30 crank with the balancer still on it cause it wouldn't came off

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Yeah bolt loose causes balancers to whack back and forth on the keyway which burrs the edges. If it's a cheap puller, you may as well sacrifice it rather than pulling the motor out. As per above there's a fair chance the crank may be damaged. If it's not too bad and you can replace the key's (cheap from Nissan) and never let the bolt get loose again then you might be alright. If the cam belt gear key is stuffed as well then you're really in trouble. It's obviously more important to hold the belt gear in the perfectly correct position than the balancer.

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Try not to start new threads, get's confusing as people still post in both. You could ask the same questions in here as people that are interested will follow the post to help of for their own interest.

Standard balancer will be fine. Otherwise get a Ross or an ATI if you've got the cash.

Doesn't need to be the same weight as before. Wouldn't hurt to get a balancing/machining company to spin it up to make sure it is balanced.

Replaced your crank keys to be safe, saves it sticking again. Put Molybdenum anti seize on the crank snout too, even further prevents sticking/grabbing.

Underdriven only worthwhile if you're on the track 90% of the time. Gives you lesser P/S and A/C (which many can live with) on the street.

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