Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's up guys !

Can someone plz plz give me a hand with this hey,

this is serious driving me insane !! :cheers:

Couple of month ago I bought a 1992 Sliver GTR R32 from

Melbourne for a good price, I only paid $28,000 for it , after the

car passed the inspection from Melbourne, I paid $1,450 to

get it over in Brisbane, then another $900 to register it..

And a couple of weeks ago white smoke starts to come out

form the exhaust, well... I didn't really give a thing in the start,

but it keep on happaning so I took it to the work shop.

I thought it's probably my turbo is getting old,

time to chuck a new one on it.

Unfortunally the mechanic walks out and told me the turbo is

quite fine, so there could be a problem with the engine. so then

we did a Engine Comperssure test, the first 3 cylinders was all good,

but drop the compressure on the last 3 cylinders ...OMG @#$%@& :):);)

and the gearbox oil is leaking .... and all this problems..

This is been bothering me to the max , I have already spend over 30k on the car,

and it just ........

And i thought it passed the inspection in Melbourne, ..

and the guy I bought the car from,

his phone is switched off...@#$@%%

next time I better not buy a car without seeing it hey ..

So.. PLZ.. somebody give me some ideas

where should I go to do a Engine Rebuilt,

I live in Brissy , and also where should I buy clutches,

cos the clutch on the car is gettign sliper and sliper.. @#@$% :D

=Skylineinsane=

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43691-92-gtr-r32-engine-blowing-up-help/
Share on other sites

depending on how long ago the car passed roadworthy you may be able to ring the workshop that inspected the car and ask them, how exactly they passed a car with oil leaks etc...worth a try as many dodgy workshops are being repremanded by the government transport department. If not have a ring around brissy there are plenty of workshops who will do the job of a rebuild. Just make sure you know what exactly is wrong and what needs and doesnt need fixing, so you dont get ripped off! Good luck

Matt-

Dude, if you want parts, pm me. I will ship them from overseas. Maybe consider a stroker kit, like HKS, if you've got the cash lying around. Forget about the stock block. Get an N1 block from Nismo, they're 3k a pop.

HKS stroker kits come with pistons, con rods and crank. Put it all in and you should have a decent engine. Head work is the next thing you would look at, get it port and polished to maximise your bottom end. And don't forget about your sump baffle while you're at it.

If you've got about 40-45k lying around, I can get you an 800hp Tomei engine, or a JUN engine built to your specifications.

The warranties arent what they seem unfortunately,

The cover certain parts to a certain value.

IE; The engine to 2000, the clutch to 500 etc etc

so warranties from dealerships are pretty much useless.

Goto Gavin woods or someone with expierence in internal work on RB26DETT

Almost the exact same thing happended to me beginning of this year. car was a little cheaper though. It is currently at Autotech (Gavin Woods) with motor out at the moment.

I will have spent 30k by the end, but it has to fresh turbos already.

So if all goes well I haven't done that badly.

Previous owner wound up boost after it was rebuilt last year. His mechanic did the check over of the car for me....

Im the one thats silly enough to believe older ppl don't rip ppl off.... blah blah blah

This was in a ute not the GTR. luckily

Im hoping everything is sweet once the motor is back in place... I dont plan on modding the car, just enjoying it.

One good thing about a GTR as opposed to a commodore, your not forever modding it trying to make it go like a GTR

thats teach everyone a lesson,you pay for what you get,good GTR always hold the value very well,only a doge GTR or poor condition GTR sell cheap, you should spend more money to get right GTR,not try to spend less and get shit car,

i sold my GTR32 for 36k few months ago,the new owner very happy for the car and never have any problem at all,

i think you should try to get some used R33GTR engine,it wil cost you 5k to buy and you still can sell you old motor for 2k,its work out cheaper,

good luck

depending on how long ago the car passed roadworthy you may be able to ring the workshop that inspected the car and ask them, how exactly they passed a car with oil leaks etc...worth a try as many dodgy workshops are being repremanded by the government transport department. If not have a ring around brissy there are plenty of workshops who will do the job of a rebuild. Just make sure you know what exactly is wrong and what needs and doesnt need fixing, so you dont get ripped off! Good luck

Matt-

hey matt with the oil leak on the road worthy

the car can have a oil seep's meaning that the cross member can be fully covered in oil & it can still pass,the only problem is that it must drip more than 3 time

in 60 sec to fail all that most small shops will do is just wipe or wash the cross

member off & pass it. witch is BULL S**T & a real :kick: 4 the poor prick that

buys the car.

this is the only time it is worth taking a car into a dealer ship because the dealer's have a lot more to lose, most car yards have a mechanical shop they send all there cars to meaning that the mechanical shop will let small things go through

dealer ship's are a lot more strict with their road worthy's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...