Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I am tossing up between either Apexi Power FC or NIStune, question is what model Power FC do I have to buy. I cant find a Stagea specific ones. looking around for a second hand one ( I know, I know but Im on a limited budget. ) Can some one please shed some light on which one I need to get if I choose the Power FC ? 2nd question is, If I buy the NIStune board myself, with the Board, Cable, Software, and Installation for $615 does that give me the ability to tune myself or just to "adjust" things ? How hard are they to self install and can the car be driven to the tuners ? Or will it have to be towed ?

Any help is greatly appreciated :-D . do

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437026-power-fc-nistune-qs/
Share on other sites

You will need a powerFC to suit a R34 GTT RB25DET Neo, you can pick them up BRAND NEW for around 1k, i priced one up for me with a boost control kit and it was around 1.2k shipped from japan, i know thats a bit over the nistune but i recon they are a better option

Edited by nick88

The Nistune is the better bet for price and simplicity. Send ECU away to Nistune (or find someone who can desolder/resolder new board). The hidden cost from Nistune comes if you buy the cable and licence to make changes yourself. Are you really going to make changes? Do you have any tuning experience?

The PowerFC would also require sorting out a 3.6-3.7v feed to pin 51 to get around traction control/engine check lights.

I use both and both are good options.

Adaptronic are cheap and finding a few friends these days if you want something with more bells and whistles.

I echo Wolverine's statements

Nistune is great for the price and also stealthy since it's a daughter-board and is installed on the ECU itself and you get to keep all the factory stuff

PowerFC being a complete ECU solution will give you more bells and whistles but personally the hand controller is cop bait...

Nistune will allow you to tune yourself (with the individual licence) but you need to have some tuning knowledge

When you send your Nistune away for them to install it, they will install the stock tune so once you plug it back into your car, your car is driveable straight away (I would find a official nistune dealer who can supply, install & tune for you) - whereabouts do you live 99RS4?

Edited by BigDirtyJase
  • 1 year later...

Hey I'm new to replying and posting usually just read, but I'm after a peace of mind.

I have an 99 r34 2door manual awd neo25de... Iv been offed a neo25det awd out of a stagea and was just wondering what I would have to do for a engine swap, is it a pretty straight forward swap? I have a power fc with hand controler in the box waiting to be used for a 34 gt-t.

Edited by BabyZ

Engine swap should be straightforward although would be good if you could get the loom with the neo engine. You would want some better brakes and a new radiator and go straight for a FMIC. As the Stagea was probably an auto you need to change the spigot bearing in the crank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...