Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Peeps

Thought I would do a write up as it seems there isn't one anywhere else and the 350Z or G35/V35 isn't the same..........

these colour codes were taken from a double din radio - non bose type.

12V Constant - Yellow/Pink.

12V Switched (Ignition) - Light Green/Pink.

Ground - Red/Blue.

Head Light Signal / Dimmer - Green/White.

Front Left Speaker: White & Black. (do not know polarity)

Front Right Speaker: Red & Green. (do not know polarity)

Rear Left Speaker: Yellow & Brown. (do not know polarity)

Rear Right Speaker: Pink & Blue. (do not know polarity)

There were 5 colours left over but I did not bother finding out what they were.

Cheers, Theo.

Very nice work. How did your replacement stereo fit in the slot? I did mine on the weekend, and I'm not 100% satisfied with the fit, but was in a rush at the time. Now ceebs taking everything apart again.

If you're lazy (like me) and can't solder for shit, I bought this ISO and it works well.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-1995-stereo-ISO-WIRING-HARNESS-plug-connector-/260669742342?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb1209d06&_uhb=1

it didn't sit in that flush either but cant do much about it with the counter sunk screw's.

I don't have a problem with soldering (I'm an electrician by trade) I'd rather know its right and have a good joint, not like these auto electricians who twist it together and tape it LOL

here's a photo.......

post-83704-0-37788300-1388985725_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys just to add to this, when I wired my speakers to an amp, the wires with a trace are negative and the solid coloured wire twisted with it is the positive one.Cheers

is this not common knowledge.

I'm just adding info to the post josh, as Theo noted in the first part that he did not know the polarity. So I guess you could say it's not common knowledge, or he's not a commoner, or he was taking the piss and I fell right into it.

In electronics line generally means positive.

^ The Focals I wired in use clear speaker cable and the one with red trace (line) is used as positive, which is opposite to the standard wiring setup so yeah...like Brick said. Every manufacturer makes their own rules

Scott can you paste a picture of all the head unit wires???

the Green/White wire and also the Red/Blue wire would be a start though.

need to figure out why my interior lights, parkers and tail lights aren't working........ I've replaced the BCM and still nothing :(

See if any of this helps. It seems the pages after the ones I've printed are predominately about the navi operation & repair.

AVpt1.pdf

AVpt2.pdf

What I normally do is find what I think I need in the English G35 version & then try to find the equivalent section in the Japanese M35 manual (translating where necessary). If there happens to be any changes to wiring terminals/colours etc, you may be able to catch it before cutting the wrong wire.

AV_lowres.pdf

Good luck & let me know if you need more.

Cheers, Leon.

  • 2 weeks later...

DONT NOT GROUND THE RED/BLUE WIRE!!!! it is actually the cabin lights/parkers/tail lights!!!

I think I've blown the BCM by doing so!!! FFS

don't worry, fuse you need is third on left row in the vertical fuse box near the battery, you have to remove the plastic shield in the bottom of the glass to access it!

it is called "tail ***", if i'm wrong on placement. surely you will find the reason in this box :yes:

Edited by Erop

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...