Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all.

Yesterday I installed the walbro 450 LPH fuel pump into my R34 GTT.

I HAVE NOT REWIRED DIRECTLY FROM BATTERY... yet.

This is the only thing i have changed in preparation for e85, and now under load is missing and breaking down.

The car was running fine with my Bosch making around 300 RWKW.

Have any people had experience with this pump?

Does it require 13-14v to function normally at that KW due to the design of the pump?

Im going to test the LPH output now and see what i come up with, but any advice or experience would be helpful.

Standard lines, rail and reg too.

Cheers, Cam

Thanks man, I know to get their rated capacity it will require a direct feed, but would the lack of power supply reduce its out put to the point where the car misses?

I thought it would be able to keep up at this stage?

Thanks man, I know to get their rated capacity it will require a direct feed, but would the lack of power supply reduce its out put to the point where the car misses?

I thought it would be able to keep up at this stage?

That doesn't sound right at all, it will still flow even a lower voltage..

Jab a multimeter on your fuel pump power and see if it rises as you flex the throttle.. even a stationary jab will raise the voltage.

I have a feeling the factory wiring isn't keeping up with the current load and in turn the pump isn't getting what it needs.

That doesn't sound right at all, it will still flow even a lower voltage..

at idle and dabbing the throttle its around 4.3v

Jab a multimeter on your fuel pump power and see if it rises as you flex the throttle.. even a stationary jab will raise the voltage.

I have a feeling the factory wiring isn't keeping up with the current load and in turn the pump isn't getting what it needs.

Edited by camoo

I have the same fuel pump. It needs an extra earth to work properly.

Connect it to the factory + / - wiring inside the fuel tank

Out side thank, Tee an earth wire into the factory earth wiring that is connected to the fuel pump. It will then work fine.

Ok update is now rewired with 8g wiring. Still doing it. Old pump back in.

Still doing it.

as johnnilicte suggested, im leaning towards plugs may have crapped out due to fueling. But that's a tomorrow job to check.

I'm going to be re-wiring my pump (same one) with a drop resistor & beefed up relays.. I'll write up a guide once I'm done!

Will retain the factory drop resistor, but on throttle the pump will get full power without melting shit LOL

I'm going to be re-wiring my pump (same one) with a drop resistor & beefed up relays.. I'll write up a guide once I'm done!

Will retain the factory drop resistor, but on throttle the pump will get full power without melting shit LOL

If we don't hear back I will assume that you have exploded yourself :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...