Jump to content
SAU Community

Walbro 450 Lph E85 Fuel Pump Issue/ Power Supply

camoo

By camoo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

camoo Collaborator

camoo

Posted
Posted

Gday all.

Yesterday I installed the walbro 450 LPH fuel pump into my R34 GTT.

I HAVE NOT REWIRED DIRECTLY FROM BATTERY... yet.

This is the only thing i have changed in preparation for e85, and now under load is missing and breaking down.

The car was running fine with my Bosch making around 300 RWKW.

Have any people had experience with this pump?

Does it require 13-14v to function normally at that KW due to the design of the pump?

Im going to test the LPH output now and see what i come up with, but any advice or experience would be helpful.

Standard lines, rail and reg too.

Cheers, Cam

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I melted the plug with mine. Definitely needs sometging better than stock for wiring.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423664-melted-connector-plug-due-to-larger-in-tank-pump-pics/

camoo Collaborator

camoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks man, I know to get their rated capacity it will require a direct feed, but would the lack of power supply reduce its out put to the point where the car misses?

I thought it would be able to keep up at this stage?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Thanks man, I know to get their rated capacity it will require a direct feed, but would the lack of power supply reduce its out put to the point where the car misses?

I thought it would be able to keep up at this stage?

That doesn't sound right at all, it will still flow even a lower voltage..

Jab a multimeter on your fuel pump power and see if it rises as you flex the throttle.. even a stationary jab will raise the voltage.

I have a feeling the factory wiring isn't keeping up with the current load and in turn the pump isn't getting what it needs.

camoo Collaborator

camoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

That doesn't sound right at all, it will still flow even a lower voltage..

at idle and dabbing the throttle its around 4.3v

Jab a multimeter on your fuel pump power and see if it rises as you flex the throttle.. even a stationary jab will raise the voltage.

I have a feeling the factory wiring isn't keeping up with the current load and in turn the pump isn't getting what it needs.

Edited by camoo
hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

I have the same fuel pump. It needs an extra earth to work properly.

Connect it to the factory + / - wiring inside the fuel tank

Out side thank, Tee an earth wire into the factory earth wiring that is connected to the fuel pump. It will then work fine.

camoo Collaborator

camoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok update is now rewired with 8g wiring. Still doing it. Old pump back in.

Still doing it.

as johnnilicte suggested, im leaning towards plugs may have crapped out due to fueling. But that's a tomorrow job to check.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be re-wiring my pump (same one) with a drop resistor & beefed up relays.. I'll write up a guide once I'm done!

Will retain the factory drop resistor, but on throttle the pump will get full power without melting shit LOL

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be re-wiring my pump (same one) with a drop resistor & beefed up relays.. I'll write up a guide once I'm done!

Will retain the factory drop resistor, but on throttle the pump will get full power without melting shit LOL

If we don't hear back I will assume that you have exploded yourself :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...