Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20Det R32 Gtst Rough Idle

BaileyH

By BaileyH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Wasn't keen on starting a new thread..

R32 gtst - RB20DET

When I start the car whether its first thing in the morning or after the car is hot; The car sits at 1500-1700 RPM and doesn't drop... Ever, also has a spluttering/popping noise on idle & deceleration..

It's slowly getting higher & higher for example about 2 months ago when I started driving it after about a year off the road it was between 1200-1400..

I've gone through 3 different coilpack sets, same problem.

Cleaned AAC, same problem.

Found 2 small vacuum leaks, still didn't fix the problem..

Next will be injectors I guess.... Or any other opinions?

I'm actually taking the car to Gavin Woods at southport to plug the ECU in and see if any fault codes pop up.. So might tell me the problems cause.

Edited by ZRBE
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted (edited)
Remove the air feed hose from the crossover pipe that runs to the idle speed control gear and block both openings. See what happens then. If it continues to run fast, then air is getting in somewhere else.

Will do, thanks man! Damn you have some knowledge... Aha

EDIT: So my car should stall after blocking both openings?

Edited by ZRBE
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't do it running unless you can do it quickly, because you will be opening big holes into the air flow. But if you were to do it with the engine off and could restart it (maybe needing some throttle opening) and it then stalls or chugs along at 300 rpm sounding like a kero engine....then the air flow path to your fast idle would appear to be through the idle control valves. If it continues to run fast, then not so much.

  • Like 1
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted
I wouldn't do it running unless you can do it quickly, because you will be opening big holes into the air flow. But if you were to do it with the engine off and could restart it (maybe needing some throttle opening) and it then stalls or chugs along at 300 rpm sounding like a kero engine....then the air flow path to your fast idle would appear to be through the idle control valves. If it continues to run fast, then not so much.

Okay, so to get this straight if I do this and engine runs at 300Rpm or just stalls; There is no vacuum leak?

But if it continues to run higher rpm, it's safe to adjust the 'idle control valve'?

Sorry lol..

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That's alright. If it runs slow or stalls then the problem (whatever it is) is in the idle control gear (either the fast idle/cold start thingo or in the ECU controlled AAC). If it continues to run fast then your air flow path is somewhere else - some other broken vacuum hose or gasket or whatever.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...