Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I recently purchased and installed a set of Bilstein PSS9 coilovers on my R33 GTR. I was successful in lowering the rear coilovers but I ran into a small problem with the front.

20140122_204111.jpg[/url]

The lower collar hits the control arm preventing me from lowering it any further.

20140122_204141.jpg[/url]

I was wondering if I can add a small washer to push the coilover slightly out to give it a bit of clearance between the collar and control arm.

Has anyone ever done this and tracked their car? Would the extra millimeters put too much shear on that stud?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438012-question-about-lowering-ride-height/
Share on other sites

Yeah but the rim sits on 5 studs whereas this would be one. Or actually, it should be sitting on the hub so the spacer wouldnt make a difference. Just being a devils advocate here. I'm pretty sure the extra few mms wouldn't matter though... There would still be thread left at the end.

Edited by albertm7

Interesting, i guess it is to do with the design of the bilstien's as i haven't encountered this problem before with more traditional coilovers?

Well apart from getting crazy as some others have suggested, i'm not sure.

Osborn has a decent idea, space the shock out from the bottom, i'm not sure how much of an effect that will have on the coilovers operation as you will be changing the angle of the suspension.

If it's only a few mm then i don't see why not?

I think I misunderstood you. I was suggesting the exact same thing Osborn. I'm trying to figure out the exact amount of torque difference between spacer vs no spacer but having trouble with the equation lol. Also, how would that affect suspension geometry? Not saying it wouldnt, I'm just not sure.

Shaving the collar is a no go as I would have to shave it down completely. Can't really tighten it up after if I do so...

Edited by albertm7

Well, moving the bottom eye out a few mm won't affect suspension geometry at all. It will certainly increase the shear load on the lower mount though, which I wouldn't think would be a good thing, but can't see it as being likely to cause it to break off. I wouldn't want to space it out more than 2mm or so though - there is a shoulder on that stud that the damper eye has to sit on.

Why don't you abuse that silly collar for mounting the brake hose? Take a lot of height out of it so you can wind the lower collar up higher to lock it up?

Thanks for all the input. I've decided to mount the brake hose bracket further down and move the lower collar up. This way, the two collars are in contact and I'll have room to adjust the ride height. I'm putting a metal hose clamp underneath the hose bracket so it stays in place as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...