Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, a mate and I are starting a rebuild on his 33. Last engine threw a rod via big end fail, 3 holes in the block and a severely damaged block drifting at QR. M

Want some thoughts on this package, main goals are 300+ kW, it will be a drift/ street car but more drift, he does like to rev it quite hard.

Specs now:

3076 turbs

Wold 3d V500

540 injectors

Front mount

Stainless manifold

Full 3 in exhaust

Split fire coils

Fuel pressure reg, surge tank

Rebuild part list so far ( please give comments and thoughts, nothing is bought yet)

All ports matched to gaskets

N1 pump

New water pump

ARP main and head studs

Cometic gaskets

Cp pistons

Eagle or Manley rods

Tomei Poncams 256

Adj ex gear

Baffled, and larger sump

Oil cooler

All ports will be gasket matched, oil return line and ports enlarged/ cleaned up. Crank balanced, all pistons & rod will be balanced. Block needs to be bored and honed, still unsure about wether it needs to be decked. Any othe suggestions?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438239-rb25det-engine-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Why wouldn't you deck it? It would be at a machinist anyway, and hardly costs anythings to do.

The port matching to gasket is pretty much pointless, typically the gaskets are a reasonable amount larger than the ports, so you would just be doing this

___/\____ (gasket goes between slashes, makes more sense in my head than on the screen)

Hacking shit up and making it worse with a die grinder is easy, improving the flow characteristics of a port is really hard.

If you are fitting an N1 pump and like to sit on the limiter read at least the last third of this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?&hl=sk+oil+control

Stay with stock pump or if you want just upgrade the gears in them, Im personally still using stock engine stock oil pump with 350kw last 3 years in my drift car and no problems so they can take the abuse.

Will only deck the block if it needs it, can't see a reason to just deck it. More with the gasket porting is Exh, oil, water. The rb25 heads flow more then enough for what we require. However one of the engine builders recommend it so that's why I was asking here.

Stock pump was trashed and picked up a new n1 for almost free, still looking at changing gears in them. Definitely fitting a crank collar.

If you are fitting an N1 pump and like to sit on the limiter read at least the last third of this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?&hl=sk+oil+control

Yeah have spent the last couple of days reading that and plan to do sump vent, restrictors and possibly look at .cam cover baffles

Stay with stock pump or if you want just upgrade the gears in them, Im personally still using stock engine stock oil pump with 350kw last 3 years in my drift car and no problems so they can take the abuse.

Yeah we were thinking of just staying stock, everyone says they are fine at that power but then this is also just ticking the boxes for later, we aren't really doing much headwork yet. That might come later, most probably will.

internal or external gated?

are you planning to stay with 540cc injectors? seems small

Still tossing up going e85 so that will mean complete fuel system change. Also fairly happy to keep 540's in for the run in phase and if it becomes a problem upgrade then. Injectors aren't to bad to change after the fact, it's more bottom end we are focused on ATM.

Internally gated ATM, not sure weather it's worth changing to externally gated, have to do more research.

Still tossing up going e85 so that will mean complete fuel system change. Also fairly happy to keep 540's in for the run in phase and if it becomes a problem upgrade then. Injectors aren't to bad to change after the fact, it's more bottom end we are focused on ATM.

I'm getting 314AWKW at less than 90% duty on 98 petrol from my 550 Deatschwerks so you should be fine for now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...