Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No stereo really, a CD player and 2 front speaker, no amp lol. Eboost runs off it and standard accessories, that's about it. A mate works in spare parts and has priced up all the cables, battery clamps and isolator switch etc. I don't drive the car very often either. Maybe try to start it fortnightly for a bit and go for a short drive but that's about it, track days are pretty few and far between really. In the HR31, there are pits on either side of the boot, one to hold the space saver and the other side for tools and jack so if the battery fits, it may go in there. I don't intend on smashing it so should be safe enough there? It would restrict any movement should the bracket fail for whatever reason.

The under car would be quicker but if you hit something or catch it underneath very dangerous. Its a little bit more pain to put the cable through the car but will look a hell of a lot neater, almost factory. And be a hell of a lot safer then having it dangling under the car. For an extra 30min or so of mucking around its well work the effort. To make it quicker you could always take out all your seats ba the drivers one before you come here. Then we can pull the carpet back that way and will be a lot quicker and easier :)

I was thinking of at least pulling the rear seat out before I bring it. I know that's the easy bit. When I have all the gear together I will send you a PM and work out a time and date. I have got a fair bit on in March, going away for F1 weekend and also a weekend away for an engagement party, working a weekend in between etc but we will be able to work something out somewhere along the line. I'm all for neat work btw lol.

No stereo really, a CD player and 2 front speaker, no amp lol. Eboost runs off it and standard accessories, that's about it. A mate works in spare parts and has priced up all the cables, battery clamps and isolator switch etc. I don't drive the car very often either. Maybe try to start it fortnightly for a bit and go for a short drive but that's about it, track days are pretty few and far between really. In the HR31, there are pits on either side of the boot, one to hold the space saver and the other side for tools and jack so if the battery fits, it may go in there. I don't intend on smashing it so should be safe enough there? It would restrict any movement should the bracket fail for whatever reason.

If you're only running standard cd player and accessories then 0 gauge might be a bit overkill as Johnny said. I reckon you can easily get away with 4 gauge and will reduce the cost of cabling a bit more.

Luke - were you planning on running the positive directly to the alternator?

If you're only running standard cd player and accessories then 0 gauge might be a bit overkill as Johnny said. I reckon you can easily get away with 4 gauge and will reduce the cost of cabling a bit more.

Luke - were you planning on running the positive directly to the alternator?

On my 32 i ran the positive to the starter and alternator plus the fuse box. Ill have to see where the factory wiring goes from the battery, essentially the easiest way is to take the feeds from the original +v terminal directly to back of starter or alternator. Alternatively you could put a kill switch in the engine bay or "iso" with 1 side comming from the boot and the other from the original +v cables running from fuse/starter and alternator.

  • 1 month later...

Update, taken all of your advice in to consideration. I have the positive and negative cable, battery clamps, other u-clamps, kill switch and just ordered the Optima D34 :).

Battery isn't expected to be here until March 31st so not sure if it will all be done before the track day on April 23. Once this is done I can book the car in with Jez for the plenum install and retune. Happy times.

Luke, I will PM you once the battery is here and work out a day to get this done! I do like how you did it in your 32. Where did you get the black cable protector from?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...