Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I can finally and very happily say I'm a stagea owner!

Just recently picked up a 1999 Bayside Blue RSfour w/leather in beautiful condition for $11k. 100,000km. I might post pictures when i get around to it.

Just had a couple of questions:

1. I've noticed i get a little bit of belt noise when idling, not sure how to describe the sound, it's like a slight rattle/whistle i guess? And also, I noticed this morning as I turned the stag on I got a loud squeal from the belt which lasted no longer than 2 seconds then dissapeared, it happened each time i started until i went for a little drive then it was gone. Also happened tonight so I assume its a temperature/cold belt thing - no worries during the middle of the day. I assume the two are linked? I'd love to get it sorted asap, have searched the forums but not found a solid answer.

2. Just out of interest is there a way to make the dash brighter? Not sure if i'm blind and missing a dial for it or they're just slightly duller than what I'm used to.

3. Once again just out of interest: So i'm obviously using 98 octane petrol(despite my bank accounts better interests :P). Is there a difference in the petrol from different servo's e.g Shell vs BP? Do you guys stick to the same or?

Cheers Guys, other than the little bit of belt noise i'm getting I'm absolutely loving my new purchase!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439218-questions-about-my-new-stagea/
Share on other sites

Hi let's see some pics!

Squealing belts are normally just loose or possibly worn.

There are a number of people supplying replacements for the dash lights in a number of colours as well as white. The brightness is not otherwise adjustable.

Cheers for that, I reckon I'll drop by my mechanic and see what he has to say.

Cool so I'm not blind ;) they're perfectly visible at night, I just turned them on during the day and wasn't sure if they were actually on.

Oh another question:

4. This is my first car with turbo, I don't plan on constantly thrashing the thing but out of interest, how long do you guys usually go/warmup before giving some more gas - I've been at least making sure oil temp >75c.

Also turbo timers, yay or nay? I've got one just not sure whether to use it or not.

Haha cheers again people!

White LED's wide spead (they have 5 little wedge LED's on the one bulb - search ebay, you'll see what I mean) for the dash. There is an orange filter, so if you want to put blue ones in, you'll have to disassemble the cluster to remove the filters.

Start engine, led idle for 30 sec or so, then light load till temp starts to come, then light boost till at normal operating temp.

Turbo timers? NAY! BIN IT!!!

If you install one, your giving a thief the three wires needed to start your car!

Just cruise before you get where you need to be, & if need be, just idle it for 15 or so seconds.

Has it had the 100k service - new belts, water pump etc? If not, book it in with Boostworx asap ;)

Don't hit boost until temperature gauge climbs off from cold. Just drive easy until temperature gauge is steady, ie first 5mins.

I've generally found Mobil 98 lasts a few kms longer than BP, dunno why, besides having Mobil in the tank every time I've had it dynotuned.

Going to do a tankfull of Shell vpower for my tune next Monday.... Will eventually report back to say if kms per litre is any different to Mobil. I rarely use Caltex 98. If I use United 100 I find the kms per litre is drastically reduced :/ ie 270km compared to 370km with Mobil. In stock form used to get 420kms, so it hasn't lost much when compared to power output being more than doubled.

Congrats on your purchase.

And I say no to turbo timer. Mine came with one, binned it.

(I've got blue dash led lights but never installed them...)

Thanks for that info guys, I've got a receipt from some work he got done 6000ks ago at Boostin OZ, not sure if this would qualify as 100k service. Here's what was done:

Complete timing belt kit and water pump, External Belts x3, cam and creak seals, water pump, pulleys and tensioner, external belts. On top of normal checkup service.

I'm assuming the squeal is a tension issue? after starting my car today while its been sitting around in about 25°C i still i got a nice 2sec squeal.

Also here's some pics of my new Pride and Joy:

IMG_1366.jpg

IMG_1365.jpg

IMG_1370.jpg

IMG_1368.jpg

IMG_1367.jpg

I'll swing past my local mechanic tomorrow and see what he says. Definitely want to get it sorted because i'm getting the whirring/whistle belt noise whenever idling. Doesn't sound mean at all ha!

Very purty mate, congrats.

and about fuel, There is'nt one fuel that better, seems some people get better on one vs another. I use BP ultimate as it seems to work best for my car, but atm using v power as theres a shortage. Best bet is to try them all and see for your self.

As silly as it sounds; an overtightened belt can slip too, the whirring may be an indicator.

Have a poke at the belts when the engine is cool; you might notice that one is vastly different to the others.

Looks great in Bayside Blue.

Hahaha cheers guys, yeah the color/paint made me fall in love instantly when I saw it!

Mechanic is checking belts tomorrow morning so we shall see.

This thing is amazing to drive! Only thing i miss from my Magna is Cruise control! haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...