Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have inserted the acronym GAFU into my Mech Eng List Of Terms dictionary :(

Back on topic - Dean, I'll find out tonight/tomorrow about the Garrett wastegate actuator (cost, part no: etc).

Ram in more pressure than the stock injecotrs can handle and the spray pattern of the injector gets all ***ed up and all the injectors spray pattern wont be the same.

You didnt see this happen in perth did ya??? coz perth seem to always get the most stupid figures out of stock parts which dont seem possible :D

makes more sense having the engine failing due to ***ed up spray patterns rather then staying open(running rich)

If you are going to port and polish the intake, why don't you go the whole hog and get it Extrude polished or whatever they call it.

Get your throttle body, inntake manifold, runners and head and take it to them. They then pump the stuff full of this "Gunk" which is abrasive and smooths the path in the direction which the air will flow.

I think its about $330 to do it....

BASS OUT

Hi guys, ok thanks for the responses.

I think they have high levels of Nitrous in the air down in perth, lucky bastards :D

SK: U mentioned a place to get Rb25 injectors, can u tell me pls?

Matt: Thanks for the info on the w.a. I agree the rb20 wont suffice.

Steve: Hmm is 040 a better fit, otherwise i might get some prices of jap brand pumps.

At current, I am speaking to Bill from ATS in regards to hiflowing the stock turbo, and see what options i have. Will be lookin at min of 250rwks.

Will there be any difference between a decent EBC and the PFC EBC in performance. I assume that the PFC will work better with the EBC it was designed with?

Thanks for all ur responses guys :D

I just finished an exam, so in a happy mood :rofl:

Cya

Will there be any difference between a decent EBC and the PFC EBC in performance. I assume that the PFC will work better with the EBC it was designed with?

For more comprehensive ecu data-logging.

if you want the engine to last using the stock injectors at 260rwkw is not the way to go about, full stop.

:werd:

-rb25

Steve, thanks ill keep that in mind, cmon currency rate, go aussie dollar :D

Leo: Read this thread by BOOSTD, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ht=%24350+turbo

I am basically goin to do the same thing but with a different V-trim, and different machining, which is still to be decieded. Ill let u know once i myself know. Shoudnt cost more then 600 for the turbo work, and that is probably worst case senario.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...