Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have power Fc's in both my GTRs and would like to know if anyone has est if the knock sensors actually work ?

Mine is set at standard and I have never seen the light flash although I Know when we had it on the dyno it pinged during tuning because I was listening (but not watching engine light at the time) we ironed things out of course so no knock while on dyno but i just want peice of mind to know the thing will flash if theres any detonation.

Also I have a data logit but not a hand controller- how can I tell things like what my max RPM, max knock level, max other stuff has been ???

Jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44003-do-power-fc-knock-sensors-work/
Share on other sites

OK! Dunno how much I can help, because I don't have the data logic, but the HC shows what you want under the "Monitor" setting. Apexi say in their manual, the Engine Light will flash when the PowerFC hits a Knock Level of 60.. however "Apexi" also say that this is not necessarly knock, because I do know they can pick up other sounds. Generally after my most recent tune I see knock figures between 30-40 under full load.

tonygtst is right, they are only a microphone that generate a electrical pulse under vibration.

The OEM ecu's use filters to filter out noise that will be picked up by knock sensors. Knock sensors will pick up noise and generate voltages from shockwaves that come from anywhere in the engine, vlave train, piston slap, road noise and so on. The filter in the OEM ecu's filter out the noise, and only react to the frequency that would be generated by the particular engine with detonation. It mostly comes down to bore diameter, but it is a wide frequency range. The problem with after market ECU's is that they do not descriminate, the noise from the valve ttrain may be enough to retard timing.

Well the thing about the PowerFC is that you don't need to worry about it retarding the timing unnecessarily because it doesn't. It doesn't react in any way to input from the knock sensors, it just feeds the information back to the driver to do something with.

Guest INASNT

On a warm day if i am fang mine at about 20psi i get the check engine light flash at the top of 3rd, and it registers a knock reading on the pfc hand controller of 60's all the time.

Once or twice i have checked the peaks after normal driving and seen 85 knock on the pfc but no engine check light while driving, so it sometimes picks up crap.

  • 3 weeks later...

Jezzrr,

***Edit: Just realised you don't have H/Cs in your cars... OOPS***

When your H/C is in monitor mode, pressing the up or down arrow (cant remember which) will show peak figures for all values shown. pressing the opposite one takes the peak away. Pressing the right arrow when the peak value is showing will reset the peak to 0 and starts again. Pressing the left arrow freezes the current reading on the screen so you don't have to have the peak showing....

Also did you know that if you press 'next' when in monitor mode you get a cool line graph for whatever values you have set in the monitor mode? IE if you are monitoring 4 things, you get a line graph with 4 lines doing their own thing. Boost is good to use this with as you can see how well it holds peak boost and pick up any spikes etc...

Hope this helps

Brett

Jeremy... Buy *ONE* hand controller - buy *TWO* PS2 IBM PC keyboard extension cables.

Cut the relevant pins - installed into both your GT-R's. Have the cable curl around the passenger seat.

Just bring the HC with you depending on which GT-R you feel like driving (must be a tough decision you have there - I feel for ya).

It'll give you a better feel for what the car is doing.

Also engine damage can occur with the engine check light not lit.

T.

in datalogit you go to monitor mode and you can view live readings like knock and all other engine functions just like the hand controller.. but better as you can logit and view knock readings after you have done a dyno run or race to see how the tune is and were it needs adjustments...

cheers...hope this helps...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...