Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rb26 aftermarket and standard engine parts!!!

R34 Gtr cam and timing cover $370

Arp head studs rb26 $170

Garrett 2860-5 turbos mint $1400

Greddy t517z turbos great condition one turbo rebuilt $1250

Tomei sump baffle $180

Nismo fuel reg $100

Denso 800cc injectors rb26 $400

Splitfire coilpacks $340

Manley rods h beam used rb26 $450

Mahle forged pistons 86.5 rb26 $450

Rb26 block 86.5mm bore mint $280

R32 Gtr crank $150

Rb26 sump with diff $150

R34 Gtr coilpack cover $110

Rb20 rb26 engine mounts like new $100

R33 Gtr alternator 90amp $70

Rb26 bottom baffle plates $20

Rb26 cas $70

Rb26 r32 Gtr balancer $40

Engine brackets $40

Rb26 standard rods $40

Many other parts available

Gold Coast

0487924497

Garrett 2860-5 turbos mint $1400

What are your best price for the pair of these? These are direct replacements correct for the RB26 - running N1 turbines... please do confirm with me and let me know.

Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...