Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have had an issue with a small knock at the front of my car. I have tein coil overs that are fine.

I also just replaced the sway bar links as they seemed to be the problem.

But it seems as if it's still there.

One thing I just noticed while sitting in the garage till 12 at night trying to get my head around this. Is that the from axles for the 4wd system seem to have a bit of play in them back and forth as I move them towards the motor.. Bit of a mood question but is that normal???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440392-rs4-c34-front-axle-help/
Share on other sites

A common place for a knocking noise is the top mount of the shock. Did you reuse the factory mount or did the shocks come with new top mounts (either bush or pillowball/rose joint). Also is the shock top nut tight?

Yeah it's doing my head in...

I have new sway bar links. Sway bar rubbers etc. it only doe it on certain bumps on the road someone suggested lower control arm. Is there a way of testing these??

Just jacked car up at work the lower control arms seem fine. No movement or leaks. The strut brace nut was a lol loose and it had movement in it. Went for a drive and seems ok but will know for sure tonight. But I hit another f**ken pot hole this morning and now the front left has a knock when I turn :( can't winpost-107907-13945993395038_thumb.jpg

you can overtighten them like any nuts but they are much more likely to be under tight :) If you aren't confident in how tight they should be either get a mechanic to do a quick check (should be free) or use a torque wrench to make sure you don't go too far.

Hopefully whatever the new knock is can be found....but maybe stay out of potholes? :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
    • What Duncan said sounds right. Also, it looks like they only have the driver's mat. Not the rest. Because looking at the diagram: KG4911 is just the mat for the driver. KG4900 is the full set if I'm not mistaken and discontinued.   But, it looks like they may still have the full set for the manual S2. Might be worth checking for the other models as well as they seem slightly different. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/misc/G49 Man, I'm tempted.
    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
×
×
  • Create New...