Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Prior to the Cooling mod; I used to use a long tapered funnel that adapts to a PET bottle.
It's a plant watering spike that you use in the garden; bought from Bunnings for about $4.
31Pmdt90qFL._SY355_.jpg

This was narrow enough to fit in the bleed point, and gave a nice bit of extra head height to allow for coolant expansion and exhausting of air, whilst not allowing more air back into the system..

Thanks daleo did you do this when car was just idling? I'm gonna do it when I get home from work then drive for a bit see how it goes.

I'll keep use posted it must be that surely bit gasket cause shows no symptoms whatsoever I could imagine doing a gasket on the vq would be a pain.

Thanks mate.

  • Like 1

Thanks daleo did you do this when car was just idling? I'm gonna do it when I get home from work then drive for a bit see how it goes.

I'll keep use posted it must be that surely bit gasket cause shows no symptoms whatsoever I could imagine doing a gasket on the vq would be a pain.

Thanks mate.

I normally hold rpm at about 2000rpm for 10 second bursts, to speed coolant flow through the system, that pushes any trapped air to the high point.

Done a couple of times and it will push most of the air out. Once cool, you can top up at the bleed point using a syringe and some plastic tube. You may need to do it a couple of times.

Scotty's coolant mod just makes flushing and bleeding the system so much easier.

Also allows the cooling system temperatures stabilise much moremore quickly, & efficiently.

Highly recommended.

  • 4 weeks later...

I normally hold rpm at about 2000rpm for 10 second bursts, to speed coolant flow through the system, that pushes any trapped air to the high point.

Done a couple of times and it will push most of the air out. Once cool, you can top up at the bleed point using a syringe and some plastic tube. You may need to do it a couple of times.

Scotty's coolant mod just makes flushing and bleeding the system so much easier.

Also allows the cooling system temperatures stabilise much moremore quickly, & efficiently.

Highly recommended.

Can you add another to the list of cooling mods Scotty? top tank of my radiator has just cracked and squirted all of the coolant out. I've fibreglassed a a temporary patch on the crack and will order a new radiator ASAP. After patching, I haven't yet got the car running without overheating in about 2km's. After reading this thread I'll put some effort into bleeding as advised. This all makes the coolant mod sound essential (anything to make this overheating situation better). I figure I might as well take this opportunity to improve the radiator. Any recommendations for superior radiator? I live in Qld - so 38 degs is common an have some mods (hopefully few more in the future).

I just finished making one for Beau, If you want a kit, send me a pm, I can send some pictures if you like and explain it's operation Lenny.

There are a few options for radiators, plastic tank and alloy, but they are all to suit the V35 and will require a few small modifications to fit.

Please! will PM you.

As for radiators. I'm pretty keen to upgrade. Even before having the top tank crack, the cooling system just didn't seem to keep up. Every time I'd drive up the toowoomba range the temp would climb. very hot days with AC on also seemed to be a challenge. That said, if the cooling system is the limiting factor as opposed to the radiator, then maybe a standard rad will do the job with the cooling mod. thoughts please?

A few mods is fine, I've already added 600mm HKS type S intercooler (from an evo that I made to fit) so have a non standard slim AC fan, 3" suction pipe (inspired by your suction pipe mod thread, boy that was a challenge) and just finished the 3" dump and exhaust, which came out really nice and quite in the end.

The standard rad is only 15mm or so, the aftermarket plastic tank rads are 30 odd. They should be more than up to the task, as long as the engine is bled properly.

The VQ is a pain to bleed, and losing 1 cup of coolant is enough to overheat the engine. With my coolant mod it becomes much quicker to bleed, and you can still drive the car home after losing 2-3L. (as I found out after the last Sandown track day)

I've got a mishimoto rad in mine, two pass, alloy unit. It required modification to mounting points to fit, but boy I'm happy with it. When the car is moving and I've had the laptop plugged into it, even on a hot day(40 degrees) AC on, it sat at 88 degrees. Even on the track, it came in after a session without using the thermo fans (so <93 degrees).

It's a bit of a pita to fit, but worth it IMO. I also have the nismo thermostat and Scotty's coolant mod. Gearbox cooler is purely external as well.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...